There are few places in Oxford that lend themselves to eating out of doors in pleasant surroundings. But the Cherwell Boathouse is the exception. On a previous visit it was winter and, while the view of the river was lovely, it is during the summer months that this iconic restaurant really comes alive.

And the management certainly make the most of it with a range of tables placed seemingly wherever possible so diners can soak in the magnificent view and convivial atmosphere that forms part of the dining experience.

So it was that we found ourselves on a platform overlooking the Cherwell and the row of punts that are such an integral part of the business.

Scanning the lunch menu over a glass of Chablis, it is difficult not to feel privileged to live in a city that offers such a fantastic restaurant location.

It doesn’t take long to look at the lunch choice as there are just five dishes available, most available as starters and main courses, while prices are reasonable.

But for a wider selection we were also presented with the main menu offering a set option and decided to chop and change between the two.

I chose the confit of duck roulade from the main menu served with sticky sweet and sour vegetables. Attractively presented with spring onions and carrots, the small mound of duck was packed with flavour and nicely complemented by the sweet and sour sauce.

Across the table my companion had opted for the tuna Nicoise, again from the main menu. Restaurant manager Julian Minier assured us the very small piece of tuna had been seared, although it was completely pink which was somewhat off-putting for someone with a deep suspicion of raw protein.

Called in to ‘poison test’ I found it to be delightfully tender with a peppery edge, although I rather wish I had discouraged her, as it was then consumed with no further invitation to try a piece, let alone the capers, eggs, tomatoes and basil which made up the Nicoise. Such is life.

However, I was looking forward to my main course — a plate of rare roast beef from the lunch menu which promptly arrived served with a large dollop of horseradish cream and watercress.

Tender and succulent, the beef was much appreciated by someone who has welcomed the recent trend of serving meat as rare as possible, making it a totally different eating experience.

The horseradish was not peppery enough for my taste, although the watercress helped and I certainly had no complaints.

My companion had stuck to the main menu with her selection of free range chicken breast served with lemon thyme lentils and lotus root crisps.

This was rather a small portion but she was particularly impressed with the decorative crisps which added texture to the slightly salty chicken.

We had also received a side order of vegetables made up of fennel, courgettes, peas and carrots which would have been great if they had not been cold, which was disappointing. But nothing could detract from the location as the sun shimmered on the Cherwell and we wished we had ordered the other half of the bottle of Chablis.

Back came the menu and we studied the desserts. Nothing really took my fancy, so I ordered cappuccino and sat back to study the consumption of a warm English cherry brownie.

This was, apparently, a sublime experience with the light confection melting in the mouth aided by a healthy dollop of pistachio ice cream.

It had a strong chocolate flavour and the sprinkling of nuts gave it a crunchy texture. Having enjoyed every mouthful, she announced it was “one of the best desserts ever.”

High praise indeed, and our compliments to chef Carson Hill.

This had been an almost timeless experience on a dreamy summer afternoon in a perfect setting. The food and service were just the icing on the cake, or should that be cherry brownie.

Menu: Duck roulade, £4.50; tuna Nicoise, £4.50; plate rare roast beef, £10.50; free range chicken £14.50; vegetables; £2.95; cherry chocolate brownie, £4.50 Drinks: Chablis, £12.50 (half bottle); coffees, £4.50 TOTAL: £57.45

Contact: 01865 552746 Web: www.cherwellboathouse.co.uk