OK, Jamie, you win ... (From The Oxford Times)

OK, Jamie, you win ...

8:00am Thursday 19th May 2011 in Business lunches By Andrew Smith

OK, Jamie, you win ...

My attempts to gain entry into Jamie’s Italian in Oxford have been documented on this page before. More than once I have stood in the queue and eventually waved the white flag and taken my business elsewhere.

So when it was suggested we had another go, it was not an experience I wanted to repeat.

There are few places I will queue for, the exception being the legendary Francesca’s Italian restaurant in Newcastle, but in that case I know how good the end product will be. Here, I did not and, despite Jamie Oliver’s name above the door, it is fundamentally a rapidly growing chain.

But being a Monday lunchtime, we were giving ourselves a good chance and in fact when we approached there was no queue. In fact we went straight through the door to be greeted immediately and shown to a table.

And while there a few tables occupied, the place was far from full.

One of the reasons is that it expanded into the adjoining former record shop some time ago and that has given it a large extra room added to the original restaurant and basement which had proved hardly adequate.

The room is fairly dark with its windows blocked off but there is a rustic atmosphere with the ‘tea towel’ cloth serviettes and view of the impressive bread board.

The menu is extensive and it took some time to make our choices, although the process was helped by a caraffe of soave classico, deliciously dry and fruity — great for whetting the appetite.

My starter was a mushroom fritti which was large pieces of mushroom coated and fried and presented in a cone with a pot of mayonnaise on the side.

This was right up my street with the mushrooms possessing plenty of flavour — very enjoyable.

My companion’s health kick had got the better of her across the table and she had ordered a vegetable antpasti plank which consisted of chargrilled vegetables, mozarella and pecorino cheeses, pickles, olives and chilli jam.

Lots of interesting tastes there but the chargrilled technique lent a smoky, slightly metallic flavour which she was not keen on.

My luck continued however as I had ordered the fish stew from the specials board and an inspired choice it proved to be.

It consisted of coley, mussels, cockles, mussels, garlic and chilli served with a piece of grilled ciabatta bread. It was a spicy combination full of wonderful textures and flavours. And the taste was so fresh, it left me wanting more.

My companion had opted for the half chicken which came boned, marinated and chargrilled, with a warm tomato, olive, chilli and caper sauce.

Not being a chilli lover, she said it was far too spicy for her taste while the chicken was nondescript to say the least. When we inquired as to why many of the dishes contained chilli, our waiter helpfully informed us that Gennaro Contaldo, who helped devise the menu for Jamie Oliver, used the spice extensively as it was a staple of southern Italian cooking from where he originates.

So if you like spicy food, then Jamie’s Italian is a must — but be careful if you don’t.

But there was no sign of chilli in the desserts and my companion predictably plumped for the “ultimate” chocolate, raspberry and amaretto brownie which came served with ice cream.

Her response was: “OK, Jamie, you win, this is fabulous.” Clearly it hit the spot.

My response to the baked walnut tart served with espresso rippled créme fraiche and crunchy hazelnuts was a little more muted, although it was pleasant enough.

I would happily go back to Jamie’s Italian, now I know I can actually get in, at least at certain times of the week, and I will repeat my experience soon, especially as we learn Mr Contaldo is revamping the menu.

My companion may take some convincing but perhaps a little less chilli will bring her back.