As a restaurant critic I regularly hear boasts about (highly fashionable) locally sourced food. Sometimes these turn out to be at best exaggeration, at worst downright fibs. ‘Locally sourced’ cod in Oxford, eh? It was a real pleasure, then, not long before Christmas, to sit down to a sumptuous meal knowing that every ingredient came from within a 25-mile radius of the restaurant, and many of them from much closer than that.

The venue was the excellent Turl Street Kitchen in the heart of Oxford. As I explained in my enthusiastic review of the place last autumn, there is an ethical dimension to its operation. It’s tied in with the Oxford Hub, the focal point for Oxford University’s charity activities (find out more on www.oxfordhub.org). The “25 for 25” event — the second figure being the generous price for the three-course meal — was an extension of its policy of keeping food “fresh, seasonal, local”. It proved a hit.

The pictures above — showing our two main course dishes — speak louder than any words could concerning the good looks of the food. As for its flavour, let me tell you it was wonderful.

Ever a huge fan of beetroot, I couldn’t resist the starter that teamed big chunks of it (from Sandy Lane Farm, Tiddington) with shavings of Haddon Gold cheese made by Roger and Carol Crudge, from Kingham, whom I met earlier in the year at a party hosted by their neighbour and fellow cheesemaker Alex James. There was also a drizzle of rapeseed oil (Chiltern Cold Pressed), from Wilstone Great Farm, near Tring, which at 24 miles away came close to breaking the distance barrier.

Rosemarie was meanwhile tackling a dish that was almost a meal in itself, a brimming bowl of broth featuring shredded brisket (pasture-fed Aberdeen Angus, from Hornton Grounds, near Banbury) and horseradish and celeriac (source unspecified, but possibly Sandy Lane Farm again, or North Aston Organic, near Deddington).

I continued with a superb main course of venison. Chef Carl had bought two whole deer (wild Cotswold game) from the Covered Market, butchered them himself and presented the meat in three different ways with celeriac and pickled red cabbage. While I greatly enjoyed both the pink poached loin and slow-braised belly, my favourite was the indulgence of steamed haunch pudding with a wicked suet pudding. Carl confessed to me later — tut, tut! — that his source for this was a box of Atora, but I was prepared to forgive this venial sin.

For Rosemarie there was a plate of Sandy Lane lamb — roast best end, hotpot shoulder and braised belly — with kale and rosemary. She agreed with me that the Vega Piedra 2009 Rioja (£18) was an ideal accompaniment to our food.

We completed the meal with a sharing portion of Crispin apple tarte Tatin for which (unusually) the fruit was served halved, rather than sliced. Carl also bought us a complimentary dish of his delicious comice pear and sorrel jelly.

A great night