Helen Peacocke calls in on one of the local working farms producing this king of the vegetables

Despite the flood waters which covered both the asparagus field and many of the strawberry plants once again, Charlie Gee of Medley Manor Pick Your Own Farm, Binsey, is optimistic.

Not only is the asparagus early this year, but it is coming up fast and furiously, due mainly to the warm weather which is now encouraging growth. The strawberries have survived and the only plants which may have been adversely affected by the floods are the raspberries. Apparently their roots do not like being wet. Charlie says that while this will not affect this year’s raspberry crop, which he is confident will flourish, the raspberry plants which appear sturdy now may well show signs of water-stress next year.

Medley Manor Farm is one of three working farms within Oxford city and can be reached by walking across Port Meadow or along the Thames Path. Oxonians have come to enjoy marrying a river walk with a visit to this popular pick-your-own where asparagus and other spring vegetables flourish.

Asparagus really is the king of summer vegetables. Everyone respects it not just because of its taste, but the fact it’s the harbinger of all that’s good, signalling the beginning of the spring harvest yet to come and marking the end of the winter.

Once asparagus spears poke their heads through the ground we can anticipate the arrival of broad beans, spinach, artichokes, spring greens, peas, spring onions and much more. It’s a magic time and one that should be given due reverence as we dip our spears of asparagus into a softly-boiled egg for a breakfast treat. Asparagus spears served on hot toast and topped with Parmesan cheese and a soft boiled egg makes for a tasty breakfast dish too. In fact the many different dishes that asparagus can be used for are endless. Even spicy meals, including the very hottest of curries, can be enhanced by a few sticks of asparagus.

I doubt few countries in the world can beat the British for taste when it comes to growing asparagus — even Peru, which keeps the world supplied during the winter as it is harvested there all the year round. We now import 385,645 metric tons of asparagus from Peru’s Ica Valley, in the Andes, where ironically it flourishes on reclaimed land classified as one of the driest areas on earth. When Peru’s asparagus imports began a decade ago, it was held up as a symbol of unacceptable food miles, but there is an even larger problem developing now. Peru’s industrial production of asparagus calls for constant irrigation, such that water extraction is now overtaking replenishment.

Industrial production of asparagus may be providing jobs but it is now depleting the Ica Valley’s precious water supplies at an alarming rate. Wells belonging to small farmers are running dry and wells serving almost 19,000 people in the valley have already dried up. As climate change shrinks the glaciers that feed the Ica river systems, such shortages are getting worse. This problem is surely a positive reason for us celebrating the glorious six weeks that British asparagus is in season, then limiting our imports during the rest of the year. But, of course, that would mean Peruvians who are employed producing and packing asparagus would find their employment reduced, which may be as serious as running short of water. It is a difficult problem, but one we should address — and now — if we are to save Peru’s water resources from running dry.

We can reinforce our delight in British asparagus by visiting the Vale of Evesham until June 21 to take part in the area’s Asparagus Festival, which is now in its seventh year. Many events are free, companies run coach tours to the asparagus fields, there are family fun days, Morris dancing weekends, cooking demonstrations and “the great asparagus fun run”. Festival details are on: www.britishasparagusfestival.org You can visit your local farm shop or a Pick Your Own to buy armfuls of fresh asparagus which will provide you with flavours that cannot be bettered. While asparagus can be frozen, freezing doesn’t really suit it. If I have some left over I usually turn it into soup and freeze that, rather than the spears, so it can be enjoyed during the autumn.

Oxfordshire farms producing asparagus this year include:

l Medley Manor Farm, Binsey Lane, Oxford. www.medleymanorfarm.co.uk Open Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday mornings for asparagus.

l Millets Farm Centre, Frilford, which offers extensive pick-your-own fields also a well-stocked farm shop. www.milletsfarmcentre.com

l Peach Croft Farm, Radley. Pick-your-own fields, also a well-stocked farm shop, specialising in cheese, which is an Aladdin’s cave of gastronomic delights. www.peachcroft.co.uk

l Q Gardens, Milton Hill, near Didcot. Pick-your-own fields, also a well-stocked farm shop and butchery www.qgardensfarmshop.co.uk

l Rectory Farm, Stanton St John — extensive pick-your-own fields www.kbsuk.com/demo/rectoryfarm

l Wykham Park Farm, Banbury – asparagus a speciality www.wykhampark.co.uk