You can't keep a good cafe down

I began my research for today’s article by talking to a friend who spent his student days at St John’s and ate frequently at the St Giles Café, which stands opposite his college.

My own memories of St Giles Café go back many years too and link with the excitement of spotting Alden the academic and poet, holding court at one of the formica tables at the back of this dark little room. Whilst the Inklings and other Oxford luminaries met mostly at the neighbouring pub The Eagle and Child, Alden, it seems, preferred the ambiance of this historic greasy spoon for his conversations, as did many of his followers.

My friend’s memories go back to the massive breakfasts, the tomato sauce bottles in the middle of the table and the chips. Who could ever forget those chips? It seems St Giles Café served plates groaning with greasy foods that delighted students during his era, beside which the food was cheap and, once served, he and his friends were left to themselves. No one suggested they move on having eaten. The café was to him a library without books. He loved it.

There has been a café on this site since 1937. When it closed in 2013, causing many to lay floral tributes outside the main door on the assumption that although the café was a listed building it was closed for good. But no, you can’t keep a good café down, particularly not this one — it is timeless. Thanks to 55-year-old Mark Butcher — known as Baz to his friends — this delightful little café has entered the 21st century in style, while retaining its character completely.

Mark was not trained as a caterer. He read history and economics at Cambridge and having obtained his degree joined the world of PR and advertising. Yes, he enjoyed this career, but constantly looked back to those student days when he worked in kitchens as a kitchen porter to obtain extra money. There was something about the catering trade that intrigued him which is why he took over the café last year.

Much of the training he undertook before taking over the café was at Turl Street Kitchen, where he worked, morn till night, peeling vegetables. The rest of his skills come from the school of life and his own experience during years eating good food.

Yes, he did make a few changes on taking over the café. The laminated tables and the booths have gone, wooden tables take their place and he has given it several coats of paint, but essentially it is the same place. Breakfast remains the most important meal of the day, and what a breakfast! Oxford sausages, with their rustic peppery taste are made on the premises. These are served with a breakfast or with mashed potatoes and onion gravy as a lunch dish.

The main changes rest with the fact that Baz knew he had to come up with something special if he was to woo today’s customers, By his own admission they are an eclectic mix who appreciate his handmade bread and hand-cured bacon. Where possible, ingredients are bought locally. Strawberries and other fruits and vegetables are sourced from nearby Medley Manor Farm, and other Oxfordshire farms.

These changes in the kitchen are now sending a trickle of excitement among those who enjoy combining good food with conversation and company in an informal, friendly café environment.

Baz has extended his operation by opening the café for summer dinners Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and staging a very special conversational gourmet dining club event on the last Wednesday of the month. These themed dinners, which are open to everyone, (though naturally number are restricted by the size of the café) began last month. Baz explains he was nervous when he staged his first dinner.

“Yes I was really nervous — it was a bit like holding a dinner party where the conversation takes on a life of its own.. I knew if it was to work I had to let the conversation simply happen, which is why these dinners take place on a shared table for 18 people where conversation can erupt.”

It was a five-course dinner entitled The Food of the Gods, which reflected the place of food in theology. Rev Dr Tim Bradshaw led the conversation and provided the historical context of the menu which included unleavened bread, loaves and fishes, a partridge in a pear tree, latkes which were potato pancakes served with vegetable goulash and sour cream. Sacrificial lamb served with figs, pearl spelt and then manna from heaven which was a delicious milk and honey sorbet concluded the meal.

Baz believes by placing conversation at the centre of the meal just as the academic Theodore Zeldin once did when he staged conversational dinners, he is maintaining an Oxford tradition.

Food and conversation belong together. By staging these special evenings Baz is keeping the tradition of this little café alive.

Visit www.stgilescafe.com