Know your oysters for Valentine’s Day

Whilst we have no record of what that brave man actually said when he ate that first oyster, this ugly-looking mollusc locked in its crinkly shell has been talked about ever since.

At this time of the year, when there’s an ‘R’ in the month, the oysters served in Oxfordshire on St Valentine’s Day are usually Pacific rock oysters that come mostly from Pyefleet, Colchester. The wild native oysters are available from March to October. Both species have “varieties”, as the smallest change in location, or turn of the tide can affect their flavour, size and shape, and as a consequence their name.

Essentially however, they are all oysters, usually presented raw in the shell on a bed of ice. They are served with the top shell discarded and both top and bottom muscles cut to enable it to be turned in the shell before serving.

Oysters have been a favoured food since Neolithic times. Ironically they were considered a “poor man’s food” during the Middle Ages through to the 19th century. Chaucer, Shakespeare, Bryon, and Dickens extolled their virtue and Casanova’s reputation as a lover was enhanced by the knowledge that he began each day by cons-uming at least 50 oysters for breakfast.

They are no longer a poor man’s food now and certainly come into their own on St Valentine’s Day when lovers want to stimulate the libido, a state be best achieved, apparently, by slurping that sensuous silky flesh in its raw state rather than eating them cooked.

Throughout Oxfordshire, restaurants will be serving dishes of oysters this weekend, many as sharing plates.

Oysters commence life as a male and then become female within their first year, often reverting back to being a male after spawning. Indeed they can change sex several times a year if the temper-ature of the water is right.

Oysters have always been linked with love. After all, Aphrodite, the Greek Goddess of love, sprang forth from the sea on an oyster shell and promptly gave birth to Eros. From that moment, the word aphrodisiac was born.

Actually, the true aphrodisiac capacity of an oyster depends on its dopamine content — this is a vital neurotransmitter which helps govern brain activity and influence sexual desire. Dopamine is thought to provoke sexual interest which suggests it’s a dish that should definitely be served at a St Valentine’s dinner. Oysters are nutritious and low in calories. Indeed, you will have consumed only 75 calories if you eat a dozen oysters. They also contain Omega 3 fatty acids, fundamental for good health as they help maintain clear arteries and benefit the central nervous system.

When searching for a venue that was featuring oysters on their St Valentine’s menu, I was delighted to discover Tatty Bunting, a new rather informal restaurant that is not trying to be too trendy but had a great atmosphere. I stumbled upon it when travelling to Kingham. It’s to be found off the B4450. I’ll state right now that this is not a picturesque inn built from Cotswold stone with roses round the door, though it does indeed stand in the middle of the Cotswolds, offering a sensational view of surrounding countryside to those brave enough to cope with the weather and sit in the patio area. You will find it in a luxury lodge park on the outskirts of Kingham.

The Tatty Bunting was built as a small restaurant that would serve the needs of their visitors, but it soon became apparent it could offer something for passing visitors seeking food throughout the day too, including breakfast.

Their lunch and dinner menu boasts an authentic Italian menu specialising in pizzas to eat in or take away. The Tatty Bunting’s St Valentine menu includes a platter of oysters for two which incorporates Rockefeller bloody Mary and Panko fried oysters served with lemon and chilli mayonnaise. Panko is a Japanese-style breadcrumb coating, created from bread without crusts that provides an airy light crunchy coating when deep fried.

When it comes to selecting a drink to go with your oysters, bloody Mary works well, but most oyster enthus-iasts say it just has to be Champagne, though some suggest it’s actually the Champagne rather than the oysters which adds that air of romance to the occasion. It is certainly important to avoid whisky, brandy or any strong spirit with your oysters or after eating them as spirits will cause an adverse reaction in the stomach that could definitely spoil the evening.

Restaurant manager Ricky Scarrott is confident the Tatty Bunting’s St Valentine meal will provide something for everyone. Bookings are coming in fast but if you fancy visiting the Cotswolds for a romantic night out it is worth visiting tattybunting.co.uk to check if there is a table left.