Chefs are an itinerant band of fellows, roaming the countryside and pitching up at various hostelries, before packing up their knapsacks and trying their luck elsewhere.

Killingworth Castle seems to have had it’s fair share of new staff recently, mainly heralded by the loss of their front of house Lidia Dhorne and head chef Phil Currie who set up at The Greyhound in Letcombe Regis.

But now Sonya Kidney has been coerced into joining the merry band in the kitchen under head chef Dale Ventham and she has revolutionised the menu with some fresh takes on local produce which is then given a deft touch in the kitchen, meaning that I've returned three times in as many weeks.

The most recent was a Friday lunchtime when we parked ourselves hopefully in the garden, begging the weak sun to keep us warm, eventually giving up and retreating back to the bar.

I came across Sonya many moons ago when she worked at Upton, a National Trust property, when we foraged for our lunch in the walled kitchen garden which Sonya then cooked. It was one of the most memorable meals I’ve ever eaten and I’ve never forgotten it – her rostis are to die for.

And now here she is planted firmly in Killingworth Castle once more plying her wares. Our first visit was with the in-laws for their 70th birthday. The whole family piled down to Wootton near Woodstock for the occasion and although the meal was otherwise exemplary, the lamb was inedibly stringy and, as that was what the birthday boy had ordered, put rather a dampener on the evening.

So we returned next time they were in town and we had a majestic meal. Really memorable.

But spring and summer is when Sonya really comes into her own, as the produce she loves starts growing again in our gardens and veg patches, and so it was that we managed to sample her asparagus salad made with shallots, olive oil and crispy egg (£7.50) and it was one of the simplest and most delicious dishes I’ve ever tasted. The enormous oily, juicy asparagus heads balancing on more slender stalks were snappily al dente, the accompanying spring onions, shallots and chervil dressing setting off the dish perfectly. In short it was spring on a plate.

The charcuterie board was bursting with flavour and colour as well as a moreishly tasty quenelle of celeriac remoulade which set my heart all a flutter.

The arancini you could have as a starter or main (£6.50/£13.50) but what are often dense, claggy balls of risotto rice were light, fluffy and perfectly accentuated by the bed of gently sauteed spinach and mushroom, the hidden Laverstock mozzarella and the red pepper sauce which surrounded it. A bit more seasoning, and more sauce would have gone down well, but it was still a classy, seasonal, impressive dish.

My guests, who were from out of town, had by now realised that I had brought them somewhere rather special and were sitting up and taking notice, squeaking as they sampled their food. The salmon fishcakes on the specials board came as rolled balls of fish and potato, served with with peas shoots and peas so we ordered some good salty chips to go with them. Even the basics – ham, egg and chips, were done to perfection.

Time went too swiftly, so sadly I missed dessert which was a travesty really in a restaurant of this calibre, but as I wound my way home afterwards, after my £15 lunch, I thanked the Gods for Killy. A true addition to Oxfordshire’s food scene without making a big song and dance about it.

But don't just take my word for it. Book into the upcoming Asparagus Feast in June 9 and see for yourself.

www.thekillingworthcastle.com/dining/food-nights/

The Killingworth Castle

Glympton Road

Wootton, Oxfordshire

OX20 1EJ

Tel: 01993 811 401

www.thekillingworthcastle.com/dining/menu/