It was a puzzling visit from start to finish, beginning with the name. Artist Residence, also known as Mr Hanbury’s Masons Arms, is a new pub in South Leigh near Witney, bought and done up by some guys from Brighton. They run similar venues in London and Cornwall and obviously couldn’t agree what to call it.

It joins the numerous ‘hip’ restaurants and pubs opening up around Soho Farmhouse. And while this media-hyped Great Tew influx is encouraging, Soho’s members might notice that Oxfordshire has lots more to offer if they care to stop their black Range Rovers elsewhere and peer out of the tinted windows