I can think of no restaurant building round here quite like the one in George Street that now houses Côte Brasserie. Stepping into an entrance lobby that could, with its powerful overhead heating, usefully function as a hair drier for four, you arrive into an assemblage of small, inter-connecting rooms that present all diners with an intimate space of their own. This is no place for posers looking to be seen, then.

Mind you, the arrangement by no means guarantees privacy, with the rest of the world kept at bay. On the night we dined there — delightfully, let me say at once — a quartet of jovial chaps, clearly well supplied with the Christmas spirit, were enjoying whooping conversation that could be heard throughout the establishment. It occurred to me to suggest they lowered their voices to a mild bellow, with the certainty that they would still be audible at Carfax, but the remark hardly seemed attuned to the tolerant tone of the festive season.

Our visit being two days into the new year, with so many embarking on punishing routines for the benefit of body and mind, we were pleased to find Côte moderately busy. Certainly, this was in marked contrast to what we had observed through the windows of other establishments in this street packed with chain restaurants. Doubtless, curiosity was playing its part, since Côte opened as recently as November, a year after the sudden closure of Brasserie Chez Gerard, the last restaurant in the building. Maybe, too, knowledge of Côte’s quality was spreading.

Set up as recently at 2007, the company now has just short of 40 restaurants, most in London and the south east. Some are farther afield though. I have more than once made use of the one beside Cardiff Bay, directly opposite the Wales Millennium Centre. The sort of robust, no-nonsense fare it offers proved ideal last summer after nearly six hours of Welsh National Opera’s production of Wagner’s Tristan and Isolde.

Côte’s aim, admirably fulfilled, is to emulate the simple bistro cooking you will find in any number of restaurants across France. In the words of its joint managing director Harald Samuelsson: “We focus on what’s right for the customer — great food, a great time and at a great price.”

Still in a festive mood ourselves (just), Rosemarie, her mother Olive and I began our meal with cheering glasses of kir royale, made with the house sparkling white wine and cassis. Meanwhile, there was the traditional kerfuffle with the other sort of glasses as Olive reported hers missing and borrowed mine for menu reading (hers later turned up in the bottom of her handbag). I was simultaneously enjoying the other sort of olive, green and black.

Orders having been given to waitress Lutece, the first courses soon arrived. Mine was crab mayonnaise, served with toasted sourdough bread. Delicious though it was, I found the flavour of the crabmeat slightly disguised both by the quantity of mayonnaise and the presence of so many other ingredients, avocado, cucumber, capers and tarragon. Rosemarie greatly enjoyed her moules marinières, which were tender and juicy, with only the merest trace of grit. There was plenty of bread to mop up the broth (wine, garlic, shallots, parsley and cream), and the arrival of a finger bowl, a necessary accessory sometimes forgotten, was noted with approval. Hit number three was scored with Olive’s mushroom feuilleté, with its featherlight warm puff pastry and creamy filling sharpened with red chilli pepper from the Basque town of Espelette.

Other starters available included cauliflower, potato and leek soup, calamari, warm Roquefort salad, steak tartare and the night’s special of tuna carpaccio.

Another special, pan-roasted cod, would have been my main course choice, but supplies of cod were exhausted, which also ruled out the goujons. No matter: the roast sea bass proved an excellent alternative. There were two juicy fillets, with three or four big chunks of braised fennel and a champagne beurre blanc with chives and chopped tomatoes. I had side dishes of dauphinoise potatoes and green beans, both fine.

The second main course special, hachis Parmentier, was available and was chosen by Rosemarie. She was delighted with this French version of cottage pie, made from diced cooked beef and onions, topped with potato purée and toasted breadcrumbs. The classic Gallic side dish of peas, baby gem lettuce and onions was appreciated too. Olive went for the rump of lamb, with roasted courgettes, new potatoes, carrots, red onions and a veal jus. The meat was reported beautifully tender, with so much of it that a little bit could be carried home for Billy the dog.

My companions both enjoyed their puds: Rosemarie with the fine-layered apple tart, and her mother the hazelnut praline and chocolate crepe with caramelised bananas and chantilly cream. I chose cheese, Reblochon, Comté and an especially delicious Roquefort. At this point the service, courteous and attentive throughout the evening, went beyond the call of duty as waiter Edward pluckily sought out a carelessly dropped chunk of Reblochon that threatened to smear itself over my well-polished shoes.

Côte is a winner. Try it.

Côte 41-47 George Street, Oxford OX1 2BE 01865 251992 email: oxford @coterestaurants.co.uk www.cote-restaurants.co.uk Opening times: Monday to Friday 8am to 11pm, Saturday 9am to 11pm, Sunday 9am to 10.30pm Menus: Breakfast menu available Monday to Friday 8am to noon, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 1pm. Weekday lunch and early evening menu available Monday to Friday noon to 7pm. Two courses for £9.95, 3 courses for £11.90. Weekend special Saturday noon to 6pm, Sunday noon to 10.30pm, ½ roast chicken or steak frites £9.95.

Parking: At nearby Worcester Street and Gloucester Green car parks.

Key personnel: Manager Louise Peckover and team. Head chef: Paul Holmes.

Prices: Starters: Seasonal soup £4.50; crab mayonnaise £6.95; moules marinières £5.95; steak tartare £6.75. Light main courses: risotto vert £9.95; goats cheese salad £9.50; tuna niçoise £12.50. Meat and fish: duck confit £10.95; beef bourguignon £13.95; 10oz rib-eye with frites £14.95; half-chargrilled chicken with frites £9.95; cod goujons £10.95; roast sea bass £13.95. Sides: frites £2.95; green salad £2.75; French beans £2.95; creamed spinach £3.50. Desserts: chocolate fondant, £4.95; tarte fine aux pommes £5.25; crème caramel £4.50; chocolate mousse £4.50; Iced summer berries with warm white chocolate sauce £4.50; crème brûlée £5.25; cheese (Roquefort, Reblochon and Comté) £5.95.