Katherine MacAlister finds a chef at Weston manor who’s on a mission to win his first Michelin star

Larry Jayasekara’s culinary pedigree is impressive, his CV including stints with Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir, Gordon Ramsay at The Savoy Grill, Michel Roux Snr at The Waterside Inn and, most recently, sous chef to Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley.

That he has chosen Weston Manor to make his debut shows how far the Oxfordshire hotel has come. And yet it has taken them a while to get it right, even with millions being poured into the recent refurbishment by its new American owner. Last time I visited the food was terrible, proving that throwing money at things doesn’t automatically equal success. However, none of the first wave of staff was evident on my visit less than a year later, with a new food and beverage manager, chef and waitressing staff, our particular favourite, the no-nonsense Severine having arrived from Paris only two days before. But this is down to Larry as well. The new executive chef knows what he produces in the kitchen is only half the battle and that having staff who serve it with as much love as he injects, is as important.

He also knows how imperative it is to welcome your customers, settle them in, attend to their every need and then explain the dishes so that we’re as aware of the attention to detail as he is. Without this, Larry is sunk, along with his hopes of a Michelin star. The owners obviously sat up and listened, because our entire meal was an unmitigated success from start to finish. It’s still a ‘sit-up-and-beg kind of place’, as my father would say, perhaps at its best in the winter when the twinkling lights lead you down the stately drive, the impressive building beckoning you in.

There’s something wonderfully distinguished about opening the large wooden door and processing into the ordered and discreet calm of this historic hotel, our coats disappearing, our armchairs in the bar waiting, cocktails imminent. But I’d been here before, and what interested us was the next chapter. Could Larry deliver? The amuse bouche of mushroom risotto arancini with a truffle and garlic mayonnaise set the standard, giving us hope as we were led into the busy, wood-panelled dining room.

It’s still stately in there, conversations hushed, rendering it terribly formal, but as this is fine dining perhaps it’s still appropriate once in a while, and as my guests were a fearless bunch we carried on regardless, although our starter stopped us in our tracks, so beautifully executed was the first dish on the £60 taster menu, an expert hand clearly at work. Pretty it may be, but what of the flavours? The ravioli of game was a bit chewy, but the consommé, poured in afterwards, had a wonderful depth of flavour, and the truffle grated on top by Severine, wearing a pair of white gloves, was culinary magic.

We had a vegetarian with us and they rustled up a taster menu for her as well, starting with the Jerusalem artichoke, chicory, almond and winter truffle course which won hands down. The next course, confit of Scottish salmon with beetroot, horseradish and apple, was the best dish on the taster menu, the delicate, soft flakes of fish reflecting its preparation in oil and lemon, rendering it as tender as sushi, the crispy skin cooked separately and then laid back on top, while the salmon was served on a crumbling bed of wasabi. Like being kissed by a sunbathing mermaid.

Our non-carnivorous friend had the heritage beetroot with apple and a gentle goats cheese which again was a close contender in the delectation stakes, its execution being exquisite.

The Galloway fillet of beef with cauliflower textures, capers and bacon sounded quite hefty but although masculine in taste was dainty in presentation with a lovely, tender gravy. The vegetarian textures of cauliflower, shallot and hazelnut, boasted the seasonal vegetable three ways, fully proving Larry’s dexterity in the kitchen.

Puddings were next: a mango, passion fruit and lime granite, which I know is trendy but I hate eating ice in the cold and you had to scoop it out to get to the good bit. In the summer it may be refreshing but the granite covered up the beautiful fruit mousses underneath. A wrong note in an otherwise perfect meal.

The 70 per cent chocolate, with marinated figs and vanilla, came as a round wheel, like a chocolate salami with biscuity bits, which was fun and different. The cheese plate was equally as impressive.

Some homemade chocolates and coffee, all included in the price, and we were done. Done in actually after all that food, but when the chips are down and all you want to do is loosen your belt, at Weston Manor, where elegance and taste are the name of the game, standards must be upheld… at least until we reached the car.

The Manor at Weston-on-the-Green
OX25 3QL
01869 350621
themanorweston.com

Opening times: Noon until late, daily.
Parking: Lots
Key personnel: Executive chef Larry Jayasekara, food and beverage manager: Benoit Lamaudiere
Make sure you try the...  In January and February there is a special offer of £19 for a two- course lunch, £32 for a two-course dinner, and £30 for a three-course Sunday lunch.
In ten words: Larry Jayasekara desperately wants a Michelin star. Enjoy the ride!