Tim Hughes discovers how food lovers can enjoy festival fun in style and comfort at the Kingham Plough, in the heart of the Oxfordshire Cotswolds

The phrase Chipping Norton Set has become synonymous with privilege and influence. But to those who really know it, this corner of Oxfordshire is better known for something far more important than politics and power: food.

A sprinkling of acclaimed restaurants, pubs and producers, Daylesford, and a celebrity, media-savvy clientele have established this lovely stretch of the Cotswolds as a gastronomic playground. And ground zero is the village of Kingham, whose most famous resident, rock star turned gentleman farmer and cheesemaker Alex James, hosts his own festival of food and music – The Big Feastival.

Unique among festivals, the Big Feastival is a community event; a showcase for local farmers and producers to exhibit their finest wares – as well as a chance to shake a leg to some mighty fine music (Dizzee Rascal, Grandmaster Flash, Example and Paloma Faith being the most notable this year).

Keen to share in Kingham’s role as foodie central is pub-restaurant-hotel The Kingham Plough, which is teaming up with Alex and co-host Jamie Oliver to offer Feastival-goers over the weekend August 28-30, a stylish alternative to camping, with a three-night package for those intent on soaking up all the fun of the festival – but without the mud and/or dust, and at prices which make the idea of ‘glamping’ at the festival, just a five minute drive away, a most unglamorous option.

As a seasoned festival-lover it seemed an appealing prospect, and certainly demanded closer investigation. After all, surely half the fun of attending an al fresco music event is sleeping under canvas – come rain or shine? Or so I thought...

The Kingham Plough is a gem in a village which already looks like a Disney cliché of English country life.

Weathered limestone glowed gold on the evening I visited, and while it has a formidable reputation, it remains understated, with all the rustic charm of a proper pub. Award-winning it may be, but its owners, wife and husband Emily Watkins and Miles Lampson, aren’t given to shouting about it. They don’t need to.

Over the past eight years they have put their pub on the map. This year, alone, they have picked up an armful of awards – from the BBC’s Great British Menu to Oxfordshire Dining Pub of the Year. On my visit Emily was away picking up yet another accolade – this time a National Restaurant Award; coming 72nd nationwide after making it onto the list for the first time last year.

It’s easy to see why. The menu is pared down but exciting; interesting, but not overly-fussy. The mantra is ‘locally sourced’ – with a litany of local producers, many from within the parish (seafood being the excusable exception).

While Big Feastival-goers will no doubt fill their boots on Alex’s farm, I was keen to see why Emily and co had acquired cult status in these parts, so joined a handful of dressed-down diners (no sign of luridly-coloured trousers, I was pleased to note) outside on the patio, to soak up the late evening sunshine.

I began with a starter of Cornish mackerel, foraged sea veg salad, cucumber, and Porthilly oyster mayonnaise. Served with a flower, it looked beautiful and tasted outstanding – firm fish complemented by fresh crunchy samphire and a smooth ‘umami’ seafood-tanged mayo.

A main course of Cotswold (of course) spring lamb came with the finest thing I have encountered on a plate all year – a delightful steamed suet meat pudding, packed with an explosion of flavour. A confit breast of lamb was suitably pink and juicy and served with young carrots and broad beans (£27) and a light jus. It was perfect, and despite the lack of carbs, surprisingly filling.

Still, it would have been a crime to miss out on the one item I had been advised not to miss – the famous strawberry soufflé – which came perfectly-risen with a little jug of clotted cream custard and a tiny strawberry shortcake on the side (£9). Fresh, zingy and comforting, it was an idyllic ending. It took all the willpower I could muster not to ask for another – though, by then, the chef had gone home.

Oxford Mail:

  • Smooth and tangy: Mackerel is one of the few items not locally sourced

The bar, however, was still open, with comfy chairs, a life-sized ornamental pig on the hearth, and cheery bar staff serving pints of Hook Norton ale. A great restaurant it may be, but, it is very much still a village pub.

Accommodation is in six rooms – the most impressive being two newly refurbished ones upstairs in a lovely annexe. These feature bedrooms with huge beds – complete with Egyptian cotton linen and real feather pillows and duvets, lovely roll-top baths in the bedroom, smart TV should you need it, and dreamy views over the village. As a nice nod to the pile down the road, toiletries are Penhaligons Blenheim Bouquet. This is as rural as Oxfordshire gets. At night the stars were bright and bats flitted across the garden, while morning was greeted with the warm coo-ing of wood pigeons and the jump-lead kick of strong coffee from the espresso maker mercifully installed in the room.

Oxford Mail:

Like the restaurant, it is all refreshingly un-stuffy, though the breakfast is as impressive as dinner – with its own freshly-baked bread, Guernsey milk from the village, home-mixed muesli, preserves and local honey. The crowning glory, though, is its cooked breakfasts. The full English – sourced from local farms, naturally – looked tempting, but the offer of kedgeree was too good to resist, and was every bit as satisfying as I hoped: a huge fillet of smoked haddock on firm spiced rice and topped with a huge poached free-range egg.

They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and Emily seems to have taken this to heart. So much so, that I found it hard to tear myself away.

Those heading to the Big Feastival may have the same problem. Alex’s farm may be this year’s foodie mecca, but this rural bolthole is just too good to leave.

THE ESSENTIALS

The Kingham Plough
The Green, Kingham, Chipping Norton OX7 6YD
thekinghamplough.co.uk 01608 658327

* The Kingham Plough has teamed up with The Big Feastival by offering three nights’ accommodation, including breakfast, a welcome gift on arrival, a pair of Big Feastival VIP weekend tickets, event guides and premium parking.
The Big Feastival Bespoke Package is available for £1,900.
Email bigfeastivalaccommodation@tastefestivals.com