Christopher Gray makes a return to The Maytime Inn, nearly four decades after his first review of the establishment

I first reviewed the Maytime, in Asthall, near Burford, two years into its ownership by May and Tim Morgan, who conflated their first names when supplying a new identity to a pub known previously as the Three Horseshoes. Consommé cost 30p, beef bourguignon £1.95, a bottle of claret £1.30.

Now I am reviewing it again, nearly three years after their successor Dominic Wood took charge. That the articles are separated by nearly four decades apart shows the length of the Morgans’ reign. Small wonder that Tim took steps towards bed on one of his recent visits to the old place.

Bed was laid on for Rosemarie and me on the night we visited. We slept comfortably and soundly (thanks, in part, to the wine) beneath a handsome carved stag’s head in the delightful and well-appointed Hunting Room, replete with Egyptian cotton linen, waterfall shower and flat screen TV. We enjoyed a superb breakfast of home-made granola and ‘full English’ (me) and eggs benedict (Rosemarie).

What a delight it was to wake in the morning sunshine in such a lovely spot, with the River Windrush bubbling just beyond the beautiful garden and cows munching in the meadow behind the wall.

It is hardly surprising that Dominic recognised it as the place for him when, fresh from his studies in construction project management at Oxford Brookes University, he decided to become a pub owner, having gained considerable experience during his student days with work at the Turf Tavern.

His affectionate springer spaniel Alfie is well alive to the Maytime’s charms too, as is his labrador pal Ruby who belongs to staff member Paige. One or other is usually to be found in the bar.

Asthall’s delights will be well known to the many who visit for the biennial ‘on form’ exhibitions of stone sculpture (another will come next summer). These take place at Asthall Manor, once home to the celebrated Mitford sisters.

The tiny village had another resident celebrity, albeit on a less elevated level, in Bob Arnold, who played the gamekeeper Tom Forrest in The Archers. His cottage became part of The Maytime during the Morgans’ conversion.

As an enthusiast for gin in the days long before it became fashionable, I was pleased to find that this excellent spirit is celebrated here. Dominic has no fewer than 37 in stock. The latest to arrive is Sipsmith V.J.O.P, the letters standing for ‘Very Junipery Over Proof.

This was too over proof for me at a thumping 57.7 ABV. It might have delivered me at Death’s Door, in the strange name of the gin Rosemarie sampled, along with a Six O’Clock tonic. So I opted instead, as a pre-prandial drink, for Cotswold Dry Gin, whose botanicals include lavender, grapefruit and cardamom. At Dominic’s suggestion I drank it without tonic, over ice. Perfect.

During the gin tasting, we began to consider the matter of food with a look at the menu. This is a two-sided affair, a range of five starters, five main courses and five desserts on one side, and classics, sharer boards and sandwiches (available till 5.30pm) on the other.

Things we didn’t have included starters of beef carpaccio and grilled sardines, mains of pan-fried sea bass and pan-roasted chicken breast, and, from the puddings, chocolate and chilli ganache and mango panna cotta.

Oxford Mail:

  • The nicely-presented crayfish cocktail

Chef Roger Williams clearly likes mango as it was a major ingredient, with smoked chicken, in my starter salad, which was dressed with raspberry vinaigrette.

Rosemarie had crayfish cocktail with avocado and cos lettuce., which was served in a lidded glass pot with a topping of Mary Rose sauce. Thirty years ago the crayfish would probably have been local, the Windrush being famously well stocked with them. Now I expect they have been seen off by the American signal monsters.

For her main she went to the classics section for a splendid wild boar burger. It was served in a toasted bun with cheddar, chips, onion rings, relish and a dressed green salad. My choice was Moroccan spiced lamb rump, served on harissa couscous with chickpea salsa. After this came cheese (Barkham Blue and Bosworth Ash goat’s cheese), while Rosemarie had Cotswold mess with raspberry and elderflower jelly and mousse.

We drank an excellent South African pinot noir, continuing considerably later in the company of an old friend, Tony, who lives nearby. Lucky chap!

THE MAYTIME DETAILS

The Maytime, Asthall, Burford  OX18 4HW 01993 822068/themaytime.com

Opening times: Bar 11am to 11pm daily. Lunch served noon to 2.30pm daily; dinner 6pm to 9.30pm
Parking: Car park at rear
The people: Owner Dominic Wood, chef Roger Williams
Do try... the crayfish cocktail with avocado (£7), smoked chicken and mango salad (£7, or £14 main), Moroccan spiced lamb rump (£19.95), wild boar burger (£12.50), cheeses (£9.50) and Cotswold mess (£6)