Angela Swann gets a taste of the ‘unashamedly old fashioned’ cuisine that The Plowden Arms has on offer

There’s no denying Oxfordshire is a big old county with no shortage of fine eateries to please even the most fussy of foodies.

Big hitters like Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, The Kingham Plough and The Nut Tree continue to serve up award-winning cuisine with our magnificent countryside as the perfect backdrop.

So, we wondered, what could an ordinary-looking country pub just outside Henley offer to tempt us to the outskirts of the shire on a weekday evening?

On its website The Plowden Arms in Shiplake – taken on by husband and wife team Matthew and Ruth Woodley in 2012 – proclaims itself “unashamedly old fashioned” with a constantly changing menu taking inspiration from the likes of Eliza Acton and Mrs Beeton.

And stepping inside was indeed like stumbling into another era, with its cosy rustic décor and 1920s jazz playing softly in the background.

The friendly waitress sat us in the bar with drinks and menus and chatted with us about some of the dishes, showing an impressive depth of knowledge and enthusiasm. No reeling off the specials without a clue what you’re talking about here.

The menu itself comes complete with historical footnotes attesting to the authenticity of some of the recipes and interesting facts about the more obscure ingredients.

We were shown into a small but delightfully cosy dining area where the half a dozen or so tables were all occupied, even on a quiet Wednesday in June.

To start I chose the cured mackerel, pickled cucumber and horseradish cream, which was light and piquant and did a fine job of waking up my tastebuds for the culinary journey ahead.

Meanwhile, my partner was rendered temporarily speechless by the Coquilles St Jacques – scallops with girolles mushrooms, mashed potatoes and a wine sauce – so rich and flavoursome it could easily have masqueraded as a main course and no one would have been any the wiser.

Fortunately he is equipped with an ample appetite and continued undeterred on to the venison, exquisitely cooked and served with potato rosti, baby vegetables and griottine cherries.

Slightly miffed at having my first choice commandeered but mollified with a taste or two of the venison, I took on the rump steak and triple cooked chips with sauce Robert, which, according to the menu, is a brown mustard sauce dating back to 1691.

I can only assume mustard was a little different in the 1600s because it didn’t have the bite you would usually expect and was slightly sweet, but I liked it all the same and it was a perfect accompaniment to the spot-on medium rare steak and heavenly chips.

During a welcome pause before dessert, we saw our neighbouring diners tucking into a magnificent meaty slice of pie that wouldn’t have looked out of place on a groaning Edwardian dining table. It wasn’t on the menu but was one of two varieties on offer for Pie and a Pint Wednesdays. I didn’t taste it but it looked so good it could well be worth a trip back.

And on to dessert. The six options were all tempting, especially to someone who has less of a sweet tooth than a whole mouthful of them.

But we chose well and I was particularly delighted with the chocolate and marshmallow tea cake with raspberry sorbet. The tea cake itself was like a giant homemade luxury version of a Tunnocks teacake and every mouthful was amazing. That’s not to say my partner’s buttermilk pudding with strawberries, lavender and meringue wasn’t fully appreciated for its lovely mix of flavours and textures.

All-in-all it was a wonderful experience and well worth the journey. Considering the quality of the food and service, the prices are more than reasonable with main courses between £12 and £23 (for Côte de boeuf).

The emphasis on tradition is certainly no gimmick – the chef’s passion for food and its history is obvious, as is his talent. Lucky old you if you live near Henley and if you don’t, round up your in-laws or that client whose deal you’re desperate to seal, and prepare to be impressed. If it’s a Wednesday, I’ll be the one with the pie...

DETAILS

The Plowden Arms, Reading Road, Henley-on-Thames, RG9 4BX
Tel: 0118 940 2794 
Website: plowdenarmsshiplake.co.uk
Food served: Tues-Sat, noon-2pm, 6-9.30pm. Sun, noon-3.30pm. Closed Monday.
Parking: Car park at rear
Key people: Matthew and Ruth Woodley Try... Pie and Pint Wednesdays. A homemade pie and a pint for £9.40