Food review: The Rickety Press in Jericho

My parents used to host an annual brunch party, having returned from living in California in the late 1960s. It was basically an excuse for everyone to start drinking mid-morning, but they really went to town on it.

Bloody Mary’s and Buck’s Fizz to start and then a wonderful mix of Anglo-American breakfast, from porridge, kippers, kedgeree, devilled kidneys and a full English, to their Atlantic influenced counterparts of pancakes with bacon and maple syrup and home-made Boston beans.

The party would rage on all day, until their guests had drunk and eaten enough to either pass out or go home.

Brunch is an American invention, the lazy man’s lunch, introduced for those who don’t have to be at work or up feeding the children.

It’s the exciting version of cereal at 7am, the relaxed way to read the papers, the smart way to have a lie-in, and it’s geared towards weekenders, holiday makers, hay makers and lovers.

None of which applied to our hungry party of six, which fitted snugly into The Rickety Press’ comfy leather booths on a Saturday at noon.

While you can’t book a table any more, there was plenty of room, and brunch runs from Friday to Sunday, 10am to 3pm, to give you an idea of Jericho’s languorous schedule.

Recently refurbished, the new look and ethos at The Rickety Press is a massive U-turn on its well-respected gastro pub theme, changing the menu from an award-winning restaurant menu to burgers, pizzas, salads and brunch; simplifying things and getting away from the fuss and bother.

And while its fans might be disappointed, I am a massive convert; the cool laid-back vibe is perfect for drop-in dining.

As a result, I’ve been there more in the past couple of weeks than I have the previous few years.

The kids picked up on the relaxed vibe, understanding that dropping a fork wasn’t going to be the end of the world, and we had one of the most enjoyable family outings in a long time.

Because it’s good to kickback sometimes, and while dinner for two could cost up to £100, we fed six for £50 and took doggy bags home.

Any doubters should imagine being greeted by a barman grating horseradish into a row of Bloody Marys, a sight for our chlorine-sore eyes. You order your food at the bar these days and it is then brought to the table pretty promptly.

Not all of us had brunch. The boys ordered English breakfasts done The Rickety Press way, the £8 Rickety Fry consisting of the house sausage patty, home-made baked beans, smoky bacon, hash browns, a field mushroom, fried eggs and toast.

Beautifully presented and rustic in appearance, Mr Greedy would have liked a bigger portion; it was a bit artisan and he prefers proper sausages to a patty, but then again, he is old school.

The accompanying mushroom, drenched in home-made pesto was, however, incredible.

My daughter had the buttermilk pancakes with blueberries and maple syrup (£5) which arrived in a massive thick pile which she could scarcely manage.

The rest of us had pizza, unable to escape from the lure of the stone-baked bonafide Italian offerings, baked in a 500C oven brought over specifically from Naples.

We stuck to the Margheritas (£8) as it was still noon, and they didn’t disappoint; thin, crispy bases, pungent, oily tomato sauce, proper mozzarella. Job done.

We also managed a portion of (£4) baby doughnuts with orange caramel sauce and crème fraiche, which arrived on a board with dips, and the Rolo sundae (£5); a jar of salted caramel, vanilla ice cream, chocolate and caramel, which made the kids' day. An exciting treat which didn’t tip them over the edge.

The salad and burger menus were extensive, as were the cocktails, all of which I want to return to try out.

That is the beauty of The Rickety Press. I can go back with girlfriends, parents, husbands (preferably my own) or the children without making a big song and dance about it. In short, I’m in.

ESSENTIALS

Rickety Press, 67 Cranham Street, Jericho, Oxford OX2 6DE
01865 424581 thericketypress.com

The people: Leo Johnson
Sister pub: Rusty Bicycle, Magdalen Road
Kitchen hours: Monday to Thursday noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 9.30pm 
Friday to Saturday 10am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm
Sunday 10am to 3pm, 6pm to 9.30pm
Try the: Wonderful sounding American burgers served in a brioche bun with rosemary salted chips from £10