Christopher Gray enjoys sharing some fine food with southern Mediterranean flavours and style

The stretch of Walton Street that borders Jericho in Oxford is fast becoming a centre for eating and drinking in a variety almost to rival what is famously available in Cowley Road.

Time was when one ventured to these parts only for a curry, or for the similarly spicy delights of films at the Studio X cinema (now the Phoenix). The Standard, going strong since 1972, was the place of choice for the discerning. For the more adventurous there was the Dildunia, no more than a memory now. We called it the Duodenal, and something ruder.

In the years since, amid much other change, a locksmith has become the hugely popular Branca, and a bike shop what is now Loch Fyne. I forget what the Petit Blanc was, just as I forget much of the opening party, so drenched was it in Veuve Clicquot.

Mezzeto was once a newsagent’s, and after that a sandwich shop and delicatessen in the ownership of an enterprising Turk called Melhi Tanyeri. His first business in Oxford was a shoe shop in St Michael’s Street that he turned into the restaurant Melt.

Later he opened the tapas bar Al Aldalus in Little Clarendon Street, the perennially trendy thoroughfare to which the Walton Street ‘strip’ serves as a sort of annexe. Al Andalus still goes strong.

The skill that has gone into his creation of Mezzeto is evident in its subtle lighting, stripped-to the-brick walls and a well-stocked bar to break up what could otherwise feel, owing to its length, a corridor-like interior. So what of the food? To summarise I can hardly do better than repeat what is said on the restaurant’s website (mezzeto.com).

“Inspired by the vibrant ingredients of the southern Mediterranean coast, spanning tapas to mezze, our authentic menu features dishes stretching from the Mediterranean to the Middle East.”

The injunction to “share and enjoy” was not to be resisted. Who to share with was quickly settled in our recruitment of pals Louise and Roger, early visitors to Mezzeto with a sound knowledge of what’s good there. Pretty nearly everything is the answer, with many of the dishes not merely good but excellent.

The pretty plates were delivered in a steady, satisfying stream from the kitchen, with our table eventually filled with wonderful things to eat.

Having limbered up with bread, olive oil and za’atar (a tangy blend of spices), we took delivery first of a couple of the vegetable dishes. The blue cheese and spinach croquetas were generally approved; likewise the refreshing combination of broad beans (peeled, naturally) with artichokes, sun blush tomatoes and goat’s cheese. As an afterthought, Louise ordered beetroot borani, a dish unfamiliar to all of us, being a beetroot and Greek yoghurt dip with feta, dill and walnuts. “Great on a hot day,” she noted. Dream on!

In what followed there were favourites for all of us.

Rosemarie was hugely approving of the skewers of tender lamb pieces marinated in lemon, coriander and cumin and served with Greek yoghurt.

Roger urged the delights of the beef and lamb meatballs, with mixed beans and lemon.

Oxford Mail:

  • Delights: Beef and lamb kofta with mixed beans and lemon

Louise put her hand up for the king prawns, spinach and harissa. “The prawns were cooked to perfection: big, fat and juicy, with their flavour not overpowered by spices and the spinach a delicate accompaniment.”

All of us loved the chicharrones cubes of slow roasted pork belly. The dish comes from Cadiz, as does Mezzeto’s manager Francisco Ruiz, who was able to tell us that you slow cook the pork for five hours with fennel seeds, salt and black pepper, adding ground cumin at the point of serving. Two of the fish dishes got my ‘best of’ vote, the superbly tender fried calamari, and the smoked salmon and cod fishcakes.

The desserts were legendary. I was knocked out by the pomegranate and vodka sorbet with Greek yoghurt ice cream.

Louise and Roger, well travelled in Catalunya, spoke spoke warmly of the authenticity of the crema catalana. Pears poached in white wine with orange blossom and honey ice cream completed a brilliant trio.

Mezzeto has proved instantly popular with customers. The acclaim is deserved.

DETAILS

Mezzeto, 67 Walton Street, OX2 6AG, 01865 559668/mezzeto.com

Opening times: Mon-Thurs, noon-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sun, noon to 11pm.
The people: Owner Melhi Tanyeri, manager Francisco Ruiz.
Do try... Broad beans, artichokes, sun blush tomatoes and goat’s cheese (£4.50), beetroot borani (£4.50), lamb skewer with Greek yoghurt (£6.50), beef and lamb kofta (£6.50), king prawns, spinach and harissa (£7), fritura de calamares (£5.50), crema Catalana (£4.50), pomegranate and vodka sorbet (£5).