Katherine MacAlister visits the new Bill’s in Witney for brunch, lunch and everything else she fancies

There was a very old man sat on the table next to ours, enjoying Sunday lunch with his family. Bowed, hearing aid on, walking stick at his side, the gent waited patiently, taking in his rather bohemian surroundings, enjoying the atmosphere at Bill’s in Witney.

And then the food arrived in a fanfare of sizzling skillets, stacks of pancakes, piles of ribs, strange milkshakes and glasses of green goo, and I wondered what he made of it all.

In his day children were expected to be seen but not heard, and eating out was a rare treat reserved for tea rooms, pub lunches or formal hotel dining rooms with silver service and men in penguin suits. Grandparents could be equally as terrifying, formal, stiff and disapproving.

Instead, here he was surrounded by happy families eating chicken wings and drinking smoothies. What on earth had happened? A food revolution, a breaking down of social barriers and conventions, generations and etiquette; and yet he looked quite happy with our progress.

Our world may be noisier and more colourful, less bowing and scraping, more inclusive, with a hefty nod to our transatlantic cousins, but seeing him surrounded by his children and grandchildren all enjoying each other’s company rather choked me up.

My own family wasn’t quite as heart-wrenching; squabbling and fidgeting in equal measure.

The décor in Bills soon silenced them however, a bustling hub of Americana squeezed into a former old post office.

Bill’s opened on the Market Square in September, bursting on to the scene with its menu of ribs, burgers, steaks and salads, as well as its new-fangled brunch offerings.

Oxford already has its own Bill’s tucked down St Michael’s Street, it being a well known chain, but as Witney’s restaurant scene is currently expanding at a rapid rate, it’s a welcome addition.

And judging by the packed tables and the fun, relaxed décor, you can see why. Deceptively spacious, people were queueing once we had arrived for lunch.

As the brunch menu carries on until 1pm on Saturdays and Sundays, we were spoilt for choice and the children’s eyes bulged when they saw the exciting food and drinks being carted about by the endlessly cheery waitresses.

My daughters immediately spotted the delicious-looking blueberry and buttermilk pancakes bring carried to another table piled high with maple syrup and smoked streaky bacon (£8.45), so didn’t even look at the menu. Combined with the brownie smoothie (£3.65), with a rich, biscuity flavour which tasted as good as it looked, my daughters were happy.

I opted for the more abstemious green juice. Expecting to hold my nose as I drank it, I was positively glowing when we left.

Throw in some Eggs Royale (poached eggs served over smoked salmon, hollandaise, pumpkin seeds and toasted English muffin for £7.95), the Bill’s style BBQ pork ribs (£14.50) slow cooked and served with creamy slaw and skin on fries, which had my teenage son gnawing away contentedly, the halloumi and hummus burger (£9.50) in a sesame seed bun with baby gem, roasted peppers, sweet chilli sauce and yoghurt, served with skin-on fries, and we were all happy.

In true American style the portions were enormous and if it was a case of style over substance, the fresh ingredients and desire to please overcame any gastronomic deficiencies.

There were teething problems however, worthy of Tom & Jerry, as trays of food were dropped, staff slipped up, and a full mezze board snapped in half, but it was all part of the fanfare.

If you do feel like a ticker tape waiting to be moved along at times, in terms of get-togethers and a bit of light-hearted fun, Bill’s ticks the all-singing, all-dancing box.

As I left I glanced around at the old gent to find him replete and happily dozing off as his grandchildren finished up their ice creams and the adults enjoyed a final glass of wine. If he can manage mojo chicken skewers with a couscous salad, tzatziki and warm piadina bread, then so can you.

Essentials
Bill’s, 2-4 Market Square, Witney
01993 706 228 bills-website.co.uk
Open : Mon-Sat 8am-11pm
Sunday: 9am-10.30pm