The part-Scottish Christopher Gray tries the latest of a series of special events lined up at The Perch in Binsey

The Perch in Binsey is a splendid pub in the winter months, if better known as a summer landmark. Indeed, owner Jon Ellse reopened the place after a well-judged renovation just in time for last year’s sunny season and I have since experienced many happy meals on its terrace.

However, on this occasion, a welcome fire awaited us in the cosy bar and the menu offered by chef Craig Thomson was guaranteed to assist the warming process, especially apt on the evening in question – the anniversary of the birth of Robert Burns – as the Inverness-born kitchen ace offered classic dishes of his homeland.

I could almost say my homeland, since half of me is Scottish too, as my name indicates. Burns, as it happens, is something of a hero of mine, with a fine portrait of him, which belonged to my late grandfather, occupying pride of place in my sitting room.

To this I raised a sociable glass of whisky on the evening of the birthday before setting out for The Perch.

The events was not a Burns Supper in the accepted sense of the term, by which I mean one punctuated by the skirl of bagpipes and readings from Rabbie’s work, including his celebrated Address to a Haggis.

This ends, you might remember, with the emphatic declaration: “Ye Powr’s, what mak mankind your care, And dish them out their bill o’ fare, Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware, That jaups in luggies; But, is he wish her grateful prayer Gie her a haggis!”

All is perfectly intelligible, I suppose, save for “jaups in luggies” which to a Sassanach, if only half a one, sounds utterly mystifying. I am grateful to Wikipedia for putting me in the picture.

It means “slops about in two-handled continental bowls”.

Our visit to The Perch was timed to begin at 8pm, though Rosemarie and I ‘rendezvoused’ with friends Joe and Martin a little earlier at another establishment to await the coming of our taxi.

Arriving at The Perch we were greeted by manager Damian Hughes and his staff, and served with pre-prandial drinks at the bar where between the four of us we tried the “low fliers”, aka shots of Famous Grouse whisky, Martin a glass of Chateau de la Roche Touraine sauvignon blanc, and Rosemarie a pint of Lion, a fruity golden ale from the Hook Norton Brewery.

With dinner we sampled an American unoaked viognier, the crisp and peachy Clay Station from the Lodi region of California, and a spicy New Zealand pinot noir from Spy Valley.

The classic opening to a Burns dinner, cock-a-leekie soup, was teamed for Martin with a cheddar cheese scone.

No less robust was Joe’s haggis and potato cake, with roast white onion purée and parsnip crisps.

Rosemarie was delighted with her three plump scallops, complete with coral, topped with Stornoway black pudding crumble. For me there was crispy fried Cornish seafood, principally squid, whitebait and octopus, with anchovy mayonnaise.

A big fan of haggis, Rosemarie chose this for the main course, pleased to see that it was from the Edinburgh family firm Macsweens.

Their recipe blends lamb, beef, oatmeal, onions and special spices. Neeps and tatties (naturally) came too, as well as whisky gravy and oatcakes. Martin had a bowl of Cullen skink, a creamy smoked haddock soup with toasted soda bread, while Joe enjoyed a portion of corn-fed chicken with skirlie (fried oatmeal and onions), clapshot (mashed potato and swede) and grain mustard sauce.

Oxford Mail:

I had the night’s fish special, smoked haddock fillet with chard, spinach and lemon butter. To finish, I had chunks of Barkham Blue and Dambuster cheddar, a creamy cheese with an unusual black wax coating, with water biscuits and quince cheese.

For others there were shared portions of marmalade, honey and Drambuie steamed pudding and cranachan, the classic Scottish dessert made with cream, honey and whisky, which was offered with lavender shortbread.

The next special event, of course, is Valentine’s Day, February 14, which this year falls on a Sunday.

A lavish menu is promised for lovers of all ages.

THE DETAILS

The Perch Inn, Binsey, Oxford, OX2 0NG, 01865 728891, the-perch.co.uk.
Food served noon-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sunday.

Parking: On site car park is not large, so why not take a stroll there to stimulate the appetite?
Key personnel: Licensee John Ellse, manager Damian Hughes, chef Craig Thomson.
Why not try: Starters of crispy fried Cornish seafood (£9.95), potted ham hock with piccalilli (£6.96) garlic buttered Scottish girolles and spinach (£8.95)