Boxing clever, our contender Tim Hughes goes into the ring with the heavyweight champion of burgers at the James Figg in Thame

JAMES Figg was 18th century England’s version of Mike Tyson.

A ferocious prizefighter who won 270 bouts, his bare-knuckle antics earned him superstardom and a place in history as the father of modern boxing.

And while he may have been something of a rough diamond, his reputation brought fame to his home town of Thame. As a popular verse of the time went: “The Mighty Combatant, the first in Fame, he lasting Glory of his Native Thame.”

It is hard to imagine bare-knuckle fights in Thame now. These days it is a genteel and prosperous market town with a reputation not for pugilism, but for food – not least of which at the pub which bears the boxer’s name.

The head chef at the eponymous boozer could also pass as a boxer – with a name to match. But Jack Bull is no fighter. Instead he is a culinary heavyweight – and a contender.

Jack’s speciality, you see, is burgers. And so good are they, that he last month rolled up his sleeves and went into battle with the best in the land – competing against 15 other chefs at the National Burger Awards.

He didn’t quite win, but he still managed to put this cosy pub, which sits handsomely on the town’s Cornmarket, on the map as the place to come for a quality patty in a top-notch bun.

Keen to see if the James Figg was really punching above its weight, I took a trip to the James Figg for a pint of lovely Mad Goose ale and the biggest burger the kitchen could muster. And, I can report – it was a knockout. In fact the comparison is apt, as I was practically incapable of moving – and for a lot longer than the customary 10-second slow count, too.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.

The pub itself is a typical market town tavern, split between bar and dining area. Both are snug and refreshingly un-gastro. The pub relishes its links with the father of boxing, even using Everlast boxing gloves to number tables instead of the usual wooden spoons.

It being a chilly evening, we sat by the fire – which was out, but still gave an air of cosiness.

While there to try the burgers, I made a schoolboy error of allowing my head to be turned by the starters – going for a tasty plate of deep fried squid rings, which were fun, in that rubbery/ crunchy squidy way.

But it was the burger I was there to try – and expectations were running high for my bout with the finest in the county.

The Famous James Figg Burger comes with a choice of cheddar or blue cheese (£10), but I fancied tussling with something tougher, so went into the ring with a Sloppy Jim.

This tower of power consisted of steak burger (a seared thick, juicy slab of 28-day, dry-aged minced beef), pulled pork, barbecue sauce and blue cheese (£12) but I also threw in a few favourites from the extras list: bacon, fried egg, and jalapeños, (gherkins, field mushrooms, coleslaw and fried onions are also available – all for £1 each).

It came in a sweet brown brioche which was light, yielding and delicious in its own right, and skewered with a stick – which manfully held it upright.

There was nothing fancy about any of it, but there’s skill in creating a perfect burger – that combination of taste, crunch, juiciness and ease of eating – which is a dark art.

To be honest I made a mighty mess, refusing to use cutlery until it was far too late. But, boy, was it good.

It came with chips (I went for the cheesy variety, which were exceptionally generous and wonderfully gooey) and which largely went uneaten.

I was beaten and counted-out. And it felt great.

Like the fighter whose name is commemorated in a blue plaque by the front door, the James Figg is an undisputed champion. Come and have a go if you think you’re hard enough!

The James Figg 21 Cornmarket, Thame