CHRIS GRAY and friends (plus dog) head for Witney and all things American at the Chequers Smokehouse

In the week of Donald Trump’s inauguration as 45th President of the United States, can we say other than God bless – or possibly help - America as we celebrate all that is best in that great country?

Food lavish in quantity and of finger-lickin’ quality is one of its gifts to the world. The lucky folk of Witney can savour its delights at the Chequers Smokehouse in Corn Street, a popular institution for almost three years.

But Oxford need not feel left out, for we have a second branch of the outfit – the Oxford Blue Smokehouse, in Marston Street – owned by the same quartet of young entrepreneurs, who also run Witney’s Rocket nightclub.

Sian Ogden, her husband Mark and his old Witney schoolmates Sam Halsy and Martin Ogden are all big fans of American grub.

Confident that others could be encouraged to share their taste, they took on the lease of the Chequers – previously not one of the town’s most salubrious venues – and transformed its décor in appropriate Uncle Sam style.

Out the back, beyond the extended kitchen, was installed a large wood smoker to work round the clock to produce the establishment’s trademark meat products.

An instant hit with customers, the place was admired not only for its BBQ dishes like beef brisket, sauce-smothered ribs and pulled pork, but equally for US favourites such as Louisiana crab cakes, southern fried chicken and gumbo.

We visited on a recent Saturday lunchtime, when we were told (such is the popularity of the place) we could have our table for two hours. In the event we were allowed to stay as long as we liked.

Rosemarie and I were joined by our friends Martin and Joe, the latter being both an American and a former chef. Well qualified to judge the authenticity of the fare, he passed it with flying colours.

Noticing a sign outside saying “Dog walkers welcome”, we guessed that their charges might be too. Bingo! So along came Bella, everyone’s favourite Labrador.

Her presence limited us to the bar area, which was fine for us, since this meant a table in a bay window with commanding views into the street, allowing us to see and be seen.

It was heads down on the menu as we settled into our seats and got cracking on the first bottle of the gluggable Chilean sauvignon blanc. A decent wine, we thought, at £19.80 a pop; ditto the Chilean Merlot (£16.50).

Orders taken by the charming Lauren, the first items arrived with commendable despatch.

First up for me was a dish not especially American, indeed more associated with Greece. The salt and pepper squid proved a delight, crisp and tender, with tangy lemon mayonnaise.

Rosemarie gave the thumbs up to her home-made hot link sausages, while Martin enjoyed what was almost a meal in itself in hand-made nachos with melted cheese and dips. The size of the dish was significantly increased by the addition of beef chilli.

Joe had Louisiana hot chicken wings with blue cheese dip and thought the taste of the meat a little bit vinegary. He blamed this on what he took to be Tabasco sauce.

He found nothing to complain about in the giant portion of spicy pork spare ribs that followed, with a large helping of French fries.

No less generous was my superb slow-smoked beef brisket, succulent and tender. A good chunk of this, plus some of the pork, was packed in the kitchen as a takeaway for Bella. To her dismay, alas, we forgot to take it away.

Regular readers may have guessed that Rosemarie went for a burger. Correct. This was a handmade beefburger with a cheese topping in a brioche bun with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato onion and gherkins, plus French fries and coleslaw.

All agreed (we all tasted it) that Martin’s gumbo was one of the star items, featuring spicy sausage, lots of chicken, pepper, rice, celery and onions, with a topping of nachos.

Though we were all rather full for pudding, we tried the fudge cake and ice cream, with four spoons.

Merriment throughout was increased by a little singing inspired by the excellent background music. I was amused to discover that, like me, Joes knows most of the words to Jeannie C. Riley’s Harper Valley PTA.

The Chequers Smokehouse, 47 Corn Street, Witney, OX28 6BT. Tel: 01993 778134, chequerssmokehouse.com

Food served: noon-10pm (9pm Sun)

Parking: Timed parking in Corn Street or use town car parks.

The people: owners Martin and Sian Ogden, Sam Halsy and Tom Long, manager Danielle Townsend, head chef Oliver Norris.

Do try: The onion strings (£2.75), hot wings (£6.50), salt and pepper squid (£6), smoked beef brisket (£13.50), gumbo (£11), cheese burger (£10.75), spicy ribs (£13.95), fudge cake (£5).