Enjoying an out of season break in Dorset

Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside... and, it turns out, even in February.

As a usually fair-weather fan of all things coastal I’d travelled to Dorset in search of an abandoned village (see story left) and chosen the Lulworth Cove Inn just because it happened to be the nicest looking place to stay nearby.

The inn certainly lived up to its rave reviews and overall four-and-a-half star (out of five) rating on website TripAdvisor and came with the added bonus of being on the doorstep of some stunning coastal walks.

Arriving in the area just before 2pm last Saturday – the journey takes about two and a quarter hours from Oxford – we were happy to find a pub in West Lulworth, on the main road in to the cove, was serving food all afternoon.

With numerous awards displayed and a banner proclaiming The Castle Inn National CAMRA Cider and Perry Pub of the Year 2014, it hosts a “permanent Dorset cider festival” and dog-friendly accommodation.

It was here we first realised that the Dorset coast is popular whatever the time of year.

The pub was buzzing with locals and tourists, as was the Lulworth Cove Inn when we arrived at our final destination.

Smart and stylish, the Hall & Woodhouse establishment offers a bar/restaurant and 12 en-suite rooms.

Recently refurbished, there’s a retro nautical theme going on. Downstairs, there are partly panelled walls painted in a calming shades of cream and blue, old maps, pictures and artefacts scattered around, and a wood-burning stove with comfy chairs to relax in front of it in.

Upstairs in the bedrooms the theme continues; with old and new mixing seamlessly.

There’s crisp white bedding on the (presumably) reproduction metal framed beds; and distressed modern furnishings alongside genuine antique items.

In our room, I particularly liked the pile of old suitcases, complete with faded destination stickers, doubling as a bedside table. The bathroom was great too – smartly tiled with quality fixtures and fittings.

Other rooms are further enlivened with murals of surfing or views.

Resisting the lure of an afternoon nap – we headed off to Tyneham. The plan had been to walk – it’s one of the many interesting routes you can find in the area and if you don’t research them beforehand, there are maps to buy in the tourist centre opposite the inn.

But time was marching on and we didn’t think we’d have enough time to do the 4.7 mile route each way before dark (honest).

Even by car, the views were amazing and after a couple of hours exploring by foot we were ready for dinner at the inn.

Fresh, seasonal dishes hit the spot. We shared a mezze board (£8.15) of pitta bread, garlic flatbread & falafel, with houmous, tzatziki, marinated mixed olives and spicy tomato salsa – with some walnut bread I’d spotted from another dish kindly added; then it was on to a super tasty buffalo chicken burger (£9.65) and warming Haddock Smokie fish pie (£13.95) before a shared trio of ice creams (£4).

Good as the food was, it was breakfast that really had me raving.

Lulworth Cove Inn

Included with the “bed”, brekkers was a feast of hot and cold dishes. The cold spread included a whole honeycomb and a great choice of cereals, meats, cheeses, fruit, juices and pastries.

The hot menu included kedgeree, a big hit with me, and a Deluxe Veggie Breakfast of poached eggs on toasted muffin topped with houmous, guacamole, grilled mushroom and tomato and sweet chilli sauce, which was just as welcome with my cousin.

Afterwards we felt duty-bound to walk off a few of the calories with a trip to Durdle Door – a landmark rock eroded by the sea. A mere 1.25 miles away, the steep up and down (and back) made it feel like it was doing you good... and a fair bit further than it actually was.

But the fantastic views made the effort totally worth it.

It helped that the sun was shining – we were told at the inn every weekend this year so far has been fine – and even though the wind was bitter, wrapped up warm it was great to be out in the sea air.

And that’s when I realised... the seaside is not just for summer.

Essentials

Lulworth Cove Inn, Main Road, Lulworth Cove,
Wareham, Dorset BH20 5RQ
Telephone: 01929 400333
Website: lulworth-coveinn.co.uk
Prices: From £100 per room per night including breakfast and free car park pass. 
During peak season and bank holidays there’s a minimum two-night stay on weekends.

A visit to the village that died for D-Day

Tyneham in Dorset has been called “the village that died for D-Day”.

In 1943, just before Christmas, the 225 people who lived there in 102 properties were forced to leave their homes.

The village and 7,500 acres of surrounding land were commandeered by the then War Office (now MoD) for use as firing ranges for training troops.

Helen Taylor, who ran the laundry for Tyneham House, was the last to leave.

She pinned a note to the church door which read:

Please treat the church and houses with care; we have given up our homes where many of us lived for generations to help win the war to keep men free. 

We shall return one day and thank you for treating the village kindly.

But Helen, who died aged 97 in 1999, and the rest of the villagers were never allowed to return.

The measure was supposed to be temporary for the duration of the Second World War but in 1948 the Army placed a compulsory purchase order on the land and the area is now part of the Lulworth military firing ranges. 

The general public is allowed to visit when the ranges are not in use and can get a fascinating glimpse of a bygone way of life.

Although most of the buildings are derelict, it’s unspoilt and untouched by modern living, giving a unique look at a lost way of life. 

See tynehamopc.org.uk for details and visiting times

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