Jon Murray discovers skiing is not just about downhill action in the cold, while soaking up the rays in France

Careering down the mountain, the spectacular scenery was gloriously white and Christmassy, yet beyond, in the valley below, all was brown and green, fresh shoots and leaves joyously bathing in the sun’s increasing strength.

The skiers and snowboarders among you are probably thinking now of when to book your trip to the Alps this winter. But why limit yourself only to the winter months?

Spring is as good a time as any, and in French resorts such as Valmorel and La Plagne, April is a fantastic time to be on the mountains, with long days and dazzling sun glinting off the snow.

It seems embedded in our consciousness that if you want to hit the slopes, you must find a slot between December and Easter – unless you’re searching out a glacier.

But it needn’t be so. Some higher resorts remain open well into May.

And in the French Alps, there are so many activities to enjoy as well as skiing and snowboarding, with the centres laying on a host of fun activities for kids and adults.

One morning in La Plagne, we tried out snow-shoeing to walk to a mountain restaurant for lunch. And on another afternoon we let ourselves go on a 1.5km-long sledge run down deserted pistes, often tumbling over into the powdered snow when applying the brakes too abruptly. (Tobogganing: 25€ pp. oxygene-ski.com/en/) One or two of our group’s ‘sensation fans’ also tried out the reversed bungee-jump at the top of Roche de Mio, where you are catapulted into the air, attached to a safety rope. I chickened out.

On our two-centre trip we first set foot in Valmorel, a much quieter resort than lively, fun-loving La Plagne. With its stone and wooden chalets and slate roofs, Valmorel is undoubtedly the prettier of the two. It comprises five villages at different altitudes, each seamlessly connected by a frequent bus service.

At the very top is the Club Med Resort, where we stayed, and like all Club Meds, this is great for families, with impressive leisure facilities, buffet-style restaurants, and activities laid on for children. You can ski in and ski out, so there’s no need to catch a bus or carry your skis on a walk to a lift. (Club Med Valmorel: 7 nights all-inclusive from £1,317 incl. flights, transfers, ski-pass, ski lessons, ski hire & full-board including drinks. Visit clubmed.co.uk)

Valmorel enjoys exceptional snow cover, and the area’s 90 downhill pistes include 24 green and 39 blue, so are perfect for beginners. The resort’s architecture is in perfect harmony with the landscape. Buildings here are no more than four storeys high, and are all faced with wood and stone.

On our first full day in Valmorel we skied to the Chalet de la Grande Rochette for lunch, and that was the chance to reacquaint myself with tartiflette that wonderfully filling and warming winter dish of starchy, buttery potatoes, crispy, salty bacon, caramelised onions, and the region’s beloved Reblochon, a soft, creamy local Haute-Savoyard cheese.

Later in the day we sampled an even better one at a cookery class from chef Francois Bakry, who gave us tips on how to make a luxurious tartiflette that could be served up at any any dinner party. (Cookery class with M Bakry – 4€ pp).

While Valmorel is the world’s No 1 family ski resort, La Plagne is the world’s most popular ski resort with the giant Paradiski region.

Here we benefitted from staying centrally. (Hotel Araucaria: 7 nights B&B from £927 http://www.ernalow.co.uk/france/la-plagne/plagne-centre/hotel-araucaria )

To enhance this vast area’s entertainment programme at the end of the season, local tourism chiefs created a unique theme entitled Subli’Cimes, encouraging people to try out concepts that lend themselves to relaxation, when the days are getting longer and the weather is warmer and sunnier.

Oxford Mail:

  • Enjoying the high life in an outdoor Subli’Cimes hot tub

So halfway up one mountain, there’s a beach, with deckchairs, sun terraces, a sauna, a six-place jacuzzi, in the middle of the snow.

You can have a relaxing massage to the soothing sound of classical music or Tai Chi initiation.

Children can see reindeer in an enclosure, enjoy bouncy castles, balloon sculptures, and take part in creative workshops and tactile games. Whether you are doing an activity or something relaxing, it’s all free. And nearly always, at this time of year, in dazzling sunshine.

That’s the thing with skiing in spring. While the afternoons are warm, the nights remain cold, so you can take advantage of the long days by skiing in the morning, when snow conditions are good, and then sunbathe or try out the alternative activities after lunch.

It’s also a much less hostile environment in April/May than in midwinter. You don’t need as much warm clothing, and it’s a time when the indigenous plants and animals start to poke their heads out again.

Just make sure you pack your suntan lotion.

Erna Low supported our stay in La Plagne:

http://www.ernalow.co.uk/france/la-plagne/plagne-centre/hotel-araucaria 

THE FACTS

Getting there: Jon travelled to Valmorel and La Plagne on Eurostar and Sncf. Fares from London to Moutiers (Valmorel) and Aime (La Plagne) from £108 standard class return.
Book at voyages-sncf.com or 0844 848 5848.
More information: valmorel.com and la-plagne.com