Christopher Gray takes the bus out of Oxford for a fine dinner at the Fox and Goat in Tiddington

When I wrote about The Fox at Tiddington 30 years ago, following a major renovation, I made much of its new sign, which celebrated “the unspeakable in pursuit of the inedible”, as Oscar Wilde described hunting.

The Fox had long been a popular pub name, I observed, sometimes paired with hounds, grapes and geese.

Well now, following another big refurb, the fox has been teamed with a goat in a name which I presumed had been inspired by Aesop’s fable The Fox and the Goat.

Wrong! The fox was added in recognition of the fact that the pub was once called The Three Goats Heads.

Ancient papers revealing this fact were discovered in a trunk found during work on the handsome barn adjoining the premises – soon to be fashioned into guest bedrooms. The earliest dates from 1748.

“We wanted to connect the past with the present,” explained Joanna Shrimpton, a member of the local farming family that now owns the pub. She created the new sign in time for the reopening a year ago.

Various deeds and the like are now framed and displayed in the bar, along with photographs of the pub as it used to be, though not, I am glad to say, during the dismal period that preceded the renovation.

Pictures from those days would have charted a sad decline, including a spell in which the place was an Indian restaurant. Well done to the Shrimptons for creating a pub of which the local community can again feel proud.

Though aware of the changes from our regular bus trips to Thame – Arriva’s 280 has a stop right outside – it was not until last week that Rosemarie and I visited to inspect.

Our dinner on Tuesday proved a very happy occasion, not least through the courteous attentions of Doug Sheard and his fellow supervisor Ryan Witherington.

Good wines helped jolly it along, these being a decent South African chenin blanc (Bantry Bay) and, for me, Baron de Baussac. Consumption was made possible by our use of the 280, with a timetable that gave us a two-hour window for eating.

Arriving just before 8pm, we made straight for the dining room, though taking note of the impressive range of draught beers on offer in the bar.

The candlelit dining room was fashioned years ago from a pair of cottages and has a nicely traditional feel, with its beamed ceiling, shuttered windows and bare stone walls.

Studying the menu we noted a pleasing variety, even though it is not extensive. Among the starters are a mini beef kofta with cous cous, stilton-stuffed field mushrooms and baked camembert to share.

Also to share (for two or four) are a range of three boards: meaty, fishy and veggi.

Braised pork belly, Mediterranean vegetable and bean chilli, and Asian sea-bass are among the ‘mains’, so called, with other dishes listed as ‘classics’, fish and chips, bangers and mash, and burgers among them. There are steaks as well – sirloin and bavette – from skirt beef and popular in France.

Oxford Mail:

  • Pan roasted chicken supreme with sticky red cabbage and beans

My choice was the evening’s special, a good-size fishcake made with salmon, prawns, smoked haddock and crab, and served with home-made tartar sauce, capers strongly evident.

Rosemarie had soup of the day, tomato and vegetable, which tasted as if it had been made from blended tinned tomatoes - but I am assured it had not - though it was none the worse for that. There were peppers too, which gave a hefty kick to the palate.

Her main course was another special: beef stew with onions, served on mashed potato with purple sprouting. This got an emphatic thumbs up, the tenderness of the meat and richness of the gravy especially.

My choice was pan-roasted chicken supreme, which came with a square of dauphinoise potato, caramelised red cabbage, al dente green beans, spinach and a gravy featuring some of the silverskin onions also present in Rosemarie’s stew. To complete the meal, Rosemarie had a splendid slice of chocolate and cherry tart with pistachio ice cream and salted pistachios. I had three of the cheeses on offer.

All were excellent.

DETAILS
The Fox and Goat, Oxford Road, Tiddington OX9 2LH
01844 339808/thefoxandgoat.co.uk

Food served: Noon-2.30pm, 6-9pm Mon-Thurs (9.30pm Fri and Sat); noon to 5pm Sun.
The people: Owners the Shrimpton family, manager Doug Sheard and supervisor Ryan Witherington, chef Mez Stables
Parking: Car park, but 280 bus stops right outside.
Why not try... fish cake (£5.95), tomato and vegetable soup (£5.50), beef stew (£9.95), chicken supreme (£13.95), chocolate and cherry tart (£6.95)