Mamma mia! Tim Hughes celebrates the anniversary of a north Oxford institution

If there is one thing we don’t go short on in Oxford, it’s pizza. Curry houses are in short supply, and fish & chips shops positively endangered, but if it’s quality pizza – thin, crispy and baked in a proper clay oven – there’s practically one on every corner.

Those of us in the north of the city, however, have long been blessed with good pizza, in the shape of the venerable Mamma Mia, which has been serving up wonderful doughy creations since 1981.

The occasion of the 35th anniversary of this South Parade institution was all the reason I needed to wander along to this little slice of Naples, and see if it still measured up against the newcomers.

The answer, most categorically, is yes – dispensing with the competition with the nonchalant skill of a Neapolitan hitman. It comes as no surprise at all that the eatery is up for a prestigious PAPA Award – an Oscar of the pizza industry (see Nibbles, right).

We tried a couple of specials: the Anna (beechwood smoked ham, spicy peperoni, artichoke, anchovies & olives) at £10.55, and a Funghi (tarragon sautéed mushrooms, portabello, chestnut & button-with crumbled goats cheese & rocket) at £10.95.

Both were exceptional – a thin crispy base, nice and flaky at the edges but sufficiently firm in the centre to support their generous load, and allowing them to be eaten by hand (of course!).

The Anna was an explosion of flavour and texture, the whole thing set off by a liberal sprinkling of anchovies. Being a bit of an anchovy addict, I would happily have seen a few more, but I concede other people may find them overpowering.

The olives work well, cutting through the saltiness while the artichoke is firm, sweet and juicy, giving it a bit of bite.

The Funghi was divine – the goats cheese being an inspired addition, adding tang with the rocket lending a peppery hit.

Ask for chilli oil too, their’s being among the best I’ve eaten robust and tangy without being too fiery. There’s nothing it can’t improve and it’s great for polishing off the crusts.

In short: perfect pizza Long Live queen Mamma Mia. Here’s to the next 35 years!

Mamma Mia, Summertown, Oxford 

Order here...