“First the church and then the Perch,” used to be the advice for anyone proposing a visit to Binsey, the assumption being that if tackled the other way round the delights of the pub would lead to matters spiritual being forgotten altogether.

On Saturday, on my second visit to the splendidly revamped pub, which opened for business a week ago, I opted to call first at the excellent Medley Manor pick-your-own for supplies of the new season’s asparagus.

Doubtless, many people will be making similar expeditions in the days ahead. Customers are already flocking to the Perch, to the delight of boss Jon Ellse.

Jon belongs to a considerable pub-running dynasty. His father Wally was, for 30 years, the landlord of the equally iconic Turf Tavern. His mother, Ann, transformed business at the King’s Head in Bledington, creating a fine-dining tradition that survives there today.

Food is high on the list of attractions at the Perch, as may be expected with Jon, who owns Oxford’s two Mamma Mia pizza and pasta restaurants and Portabello in South Parade. I shall be reviewing its offerings in Weekend soon.

Let me meanwhile, commend the new look at the Perch. The principal alteration has been the reinstallation of a bar in the main room to provide a focal point for visitors.

The garden looks lovely in the spring sunshine. I can never sit out there without thinking of the former licensee George Chitty, known during his 1970s heyday as “the rudest landlord in Oxford”. His retort was “Only when I have cause to be”.

But he worked hard to find that cause. His principal centre of operations was his sitting room on the first floor, from whose bay window he would cast a gimlet eye on any child foolish enough to venture on to a flower bed. Loud retribution followed.

Needless to say, Jon has no intention of imitating his celebrated predecessor.