HE’S a celebrity chef with a ferocious reputation. But when Marco Pierre White met fans in Oxford this week, he was all smiles.

The Michelin-starred kitchen wizard called in at his new Oxford restaurant for the first time since its opening in February to check on progress – and meet admirers.

The self-styled “enfant terrible” of British cooking took up his place in his trademark black and white armchair at his Marco’s New York Italian restaurant at the Oxford Eastgate Hotel, on High Street, and said he had succeeded in bringing his brand of “affordable glamour” to the city.

Mr White, who lives in Wiltshire, talked about his views on cooking to guests at the £50-a-head dinner on Thursday, and signed copies of his recipe book Marco Made Easy and a stack of cook’s aprons.

Admiring the historic building in which the restaurant is housed, he said: “This is a natural environment in which to dine. Most restaurants can be sterile, but the stones speak here. It’s been here for years and years.”

Mr White trained under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons at Great Milton alongside Heston Blumenthal and went on to become the youngest chef ever to gain three Michelin stars.

He said he was an admirer of Oxford and a frequent visitor to the city and county. “I have a best friend in North Aston,” he said, “I am always around Oxford.

“There is a history of gastronomy in the city and it used to have three restaurants with Michelin stars. But dining has now become more casual and this is a new opportunity for affordable glamour.

“People may go to Le Manoir only once a year, or once a lifetime, but you can eat here for £24.”

Asked about his tough reputation (he reportedly once took a knife to a young chef’s whites after the lad complained of the heat of the kitchen), he said: “Would someone who behaves like that get three Michelin stars at 33? Most of those reports are the product of exaggeration and ignorance. But I’d prefer to be a rocker than a mod – an enfant terrible!”

He added: “I work seven days a week and make sure I have got good people around me. It’s like being on a newspaper. The editor needs to make sure he has a good team. And I never eat in other people’s restaurants.”

And that chair, which is for his use alone? “Well I’m not a Newcastle United fan, that’s for sure,” he said gruffly, referring to its black and white zebra stripes. “I’d like someone to take it away.”

So was it his idea? “Are you mad!” he said with mock indignation.

“I’d like to think I have good taste.”

Marco’s New York Italian is at the Mercure Oxford Eastgate Hotel. Book on 01865 248695 or go to mpwrestaurants.co.uk