Nothing irritates me more when entering a pub than to find the wines stored on a top shelf directly under spotlights. I assume they think the lights will draw the customer’s attention. They might as well put the wine under warming lamps. Several weeks ago, I went into a pub hoping for a fun evening with friends. The wine list was non-existent, leaving me to squint up to the top shelf. I probably announced my frustration a bit loud, because the next moment the landlord came around defending his wines.

He recommended a “very popular” Gallo brand. The glass warmed my fingertips when he poured it. The red smelled sharp and alcoholic. There were no subtle fruit flavours, instead it burned the back of my throat as I swallowed. It screamed hangover. I decided for the safer option of Jack Daniels, mixed with ginger ale. Luckily, Oxford has plenty of options where you can get affordable wines that are a bit out of the ordinary. Certain places go that extra length to make sure the wine isn’t spoiled. Last Saturday at the Fishes in North Hinksey, the pub was packed and glasses were being washed as fast as possible to keep up with the bonfire crowd. Before pouring my wine, a staff member cooled my glass that was hot with steam from the dishwasher. This attention to detail ensured my Argentinian Malbec stayed rich and jammy, for £4.95.

Tomorrow night is the annual Oxford Wine Fair in The Ballroom of the Randolph Hotel. Tickets from any Oxford Wine Company outlet.