Matthew Norman hit on a curious venue for his weekly Daily Telegraph restaurant review on Saturday. He accorded his full half-page space to something called The Pocket Bakery. His choice struck me as markedly metrocentric (as usual), the eaterie being located in London SW11. It was, moreover, of scant value even to his readers located in the capital, since the place only opens on Friday lunchtimes.

But, hey, The Pocket Bakery is clearly hot stuff. Norman hails it “the most immaculately on-trend restaurant in Britain”. He adds: “There is so much to admire about this weekly pop-up . . . that it is hard to know where to start.”

But, following his preamble, he actually does start by stating: “The Pocket Bakery is the brainchild of my Telegraph colleague Rose Prince, with her son and fellow baking maestro Jack.”

Thus does the possible motive for Norman’s strange selection emerge.

“Jack is a precocious talent with a gilded future,” the critic opines. And, you might think, a very lucky boy.