Christopher Gray enjoys a three-course lunch at an historical inn where the food is truly wholesome

My enthusiasm for Witney and its many fine eating places is well known to my circle of friends, a good number of whom have joined me on happy meals there.

Can there be another town of its size better blessed with good pubs, hotels and restaurants?

The Horseshoes, in Corn Street, is one of the best regarded. Dating back to the mid-17th century, this is a hostelry in classic style.

Built in Cotswold stone, it boasts a Stonesfield slate roof, heavy ceiling timbers, a handsome open fireplace in the bar and tasteful antique furnishings and fittings.

I first knew it, indeed first wrote about it, more than 25 years ago. However, for the past seven years, the Horseshoes has been in the careful custodianship of John Champion and his wife Pinky hands-on proprietors who, as the pub’s website puts it, you are always likely to bump into in the bar.

Bump carefully would be my advice where John is concerned, by the way, because he’s a pretty big chap.

Before taking charge, the Champions had spent a couple of years up the road at the Hollybush, another excellent gastropub which these days is owned by John’s son Luke.

Rosemarie and I called here on a recent Friday lunchtime en route to the Horseshoes where a table for three was booked.

Luke, it turned out, was away at a wedding, but his business partner Alex Vaughan and their friendly staff made us most welcome, devoting particular attention to our poodle companion, Ella, who arrived by car with David, the third member of our party.

No less dog-friendly was the Horseshoes, to which we moved after a swift sharpener. There was a bowl of water near the fire, and a jar of dog treats on the bar beside the trio of beer pumps. At the time (ales change weekly) these were dispensing Hobgoblin, brewed over the way at the Wychwood Brewery, North Cotswold Shagweaver from Moreton-in-Marsh and Black Sheep from Masham, in North Yorkshire.

We chose a Chilean sauvignon blanc (Las Condes), though a French was also available at the same price (£16.50). The wine list spoke of a fresh fruitiness with “distinctive citrus aroma and tropical fruit flavours”, thereby admirably summing up its appeal.

On the subject of wines, it is worth noting that Thursday night sees a range available at half price. The other evening deal is Tuesday’s “Best Friend” offer, when two people eating from a special menu get the cheaper meal free.

At lunchtimes, excellent value is to be found in the set menu priced at £8.50 for one course, £10.50 for two and £13.50 for three. My companions went for this, in the three-course version, on the understanding that I – ordering only the day’s fish special – could share in starters and cheese.

David began with devilled whitebait, which arrived in such quantity that there was plenty for me to try. Pretty much the size of sprats, the fish were in a crisp golden coating and accompanied by tartare sauce and rustic bread.

Equally impressive was Rosemarie’s chicken liver pâté, smooth and creamy in texture, with a delicious tomato and chilli chutney.

Since the fish pie was sold out, David and Rosemarie both ordered beef stroganoff and basmati rice for their main course. This proved to be in classic style, with strips of tender meat and lots of small mushrooms, in a rich sauce.

Though tempted by a number of the main course dishes, including confit duck leg, chicken supreme and chargrilled sirloin of pork, I stuck with the day’s fish special.

This proved sensible for the fried fillet of Cornish bream was perfect, and deliciously teamed with herb-crusted new potatoes, creamed spinach and salsa verde.

This excellent lunch concluded with sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel ice cream and a wedge of Wookey Hole cheddar with chutney and crackers.

The particulars
The Horseshoes 78 Corn Street, Witney, OX28 6BS, tel. 01993 703086, horseshoeswitney.co.uk

Food served: Monday to Friday noon-3pm, 6-10pm, Saturday noon-10pm, Sunday noon-9.30pm
Who’s who: Owners John and Pinky Champion, general manager Tim Southall, chef Dan Woolaston
Parking: In the street
Do try: Eye-catching dishes include starters of prawn, chorizo, squid and potato salad (£8), pear, stilton and walnut salad (£6.75) and haggis fritter (£7.25); and mains of chicken supreme (£14.50), beer battered fish and chips (£12.50) and roast confit duck leg (£14.50).
Puddings (all £6.50) include sticky toffee, chocolate fudge brownie sundae and cherry and almond tart.