Quail is the smallest of our game birds, weighing only 150 to 200 grams each, which is why two are often served per person.

I find one is enough, actually, particularly if it is served with a piquant sauce and loads of fresh vegetables. Because quail is a protected species, the quail you buy will be farm-bred. The flesh is a little richer and denser than a chicken, but it does not have a strong gamey flavour.

YOU WILL NEED: Two or four quail (depending on size of portion you wish to serve Two garlic cloves – peeled but left whole 4oz (125g) marmalade 2 tbsps whisky Juice of one lemon 150ml chicken stock Oil Salt and freshly ground black peppercorns to season.

Method: Turn the oven to 190C/325F or gas mark 5.

Rub the garlic cloves over the quail.

Heat a little oil in a large frying pan and gently brown each side.

Place browned birds into a roasting tin, season with salt and a twist of ground black peppercorns and place in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

While the quail is roasting, place the marmalade, whisky and lemon juice into a pan and bring to full heat, then keep warm.

When the quail are ready, remove from the oven and allow to rest while you make a gravy by heating the juices left in the roasting pan and adding about 150ml chicken stock, bring to the boil and allow to reduce by a third. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Serve the quail whole, spooning a little of the marmalade and whisky sauce on the side.