Clearly the credit crunch is biting as I have been able to walk into The Trout without booking. Now I will remove my tongue from my cheek. The Trout is as busy as it ever was - it is just that we managed to get there early one Thursday lunchtime and I had the foresight to drop off my companion before turning into the car park.

By the time I had got to the door myself, another four vehicles had pulled in and I broke into a swift trot to ensure the best chance of a table. My hopes of enjoying a little al fresco sunshine beside the river were in vain, but we happily took our seats in a cosy alcove tucked away inside this intriguing hostelry.

My fears that so many people arriving at once would detract from the service proved unfouded as a waitress popped up almost immediately to take our drinks order. We ordered a 50cl pitcher of Pinot Grigio, which seemed reasonable value at £11, although I was a little dubious about it being on draft, rather than in a bottle.

But this was actually fruity, cold and dry and was no different to any other I have tried.

This was quickly followed by some bread and a mixture of olive and balsamic vinegar to which I added salt for a real tang.

A list of specials had also arrived along with the main menu but it did not take long to make our choice.

To start we opted to share a tuna nicoise salad. This comprised of lightly seared tuna and anchovies with a crisp mix of lettuce, tomatoes, olives, capers and red onion tossed in a light oil dressing.

This was incredibly fresh and declicious, although my companion complained that the tuna was too rare for her taste.

I was really looking forward to my main course of a spare ribs, coleslaw and chips and, when it arrived, I was glad I had decided to share the starter.

There were two racks of ribs with plenty of meat on them, topped with a smoky barbeque sauce, while the coleslaw was deliciously creamy and the chips cooked to perfection. I enjoyed every mouthful, although it was very filling.

Across the table my companion had opted for what she described as the healthy option', having cast a jealous eye over my choice.

This was a sea bass fillet served with verdi risotto and a pepper and basil coulis from the specials list.

Compared to mine, this was light, but the fish was full of flavour and the risotto which contained peas, cucumber, asparagus and rocket was an excellent accompaniment.

By this time I was ready to wave the white flag, but the dessert list was calling and we caved in.

The chocolate brownie with chocolate ice cream, which we decided to share, was not my choice (I would have gone for the Eton mess), but nevertheless was rich and melted in the mouth.

Most appreciated, especially on the other side of the table.

The Trout could easily trade off an olde worlde image with its history tracing back to 1133 when it was used as a hospice for the nearby Godstow nunnery.

Or it could have photographs of Inspector Morse all over the place, as it was one of the great fictional detctive's favourite watering holes. But it doesn't do either. Instead, it presents itself with style as what it is - a very smart dining pub with a relaxed, welcoming interior helped by contemporary furniture and decoration.

Add its fanastic setting by the river and a naturally warm atmosphere, and I would suggest these are the reasons why so many flock there.

The difference under the latest management team is that you do not have to queue or wait forever to be served. Staff are efficient and friendly, barring a couple of language difficulties, and combined with the quality of the food, it easily rivals or betters anything in the city centre.

In fact, my companion remarked that The Trout is rapidly becoming her favourite restaurant in the area. On this evidence, it is difficult to argue.

THE BILL: Tuna Nicoise - £7.50 Rack of St Louis BBQ ribs, coleslaw and chips - £13 Sea Bass fillet with verdi risotto - £11 Chocolate brownie - £5.50 Water - £1.75 50cl pitcher of Pinot Grigio - £11 One coffee - £1.75 TOTAL: £54 Contact: 01865 302071 Web: www.thetroutoxford.co.uk