I took a trip down memory lane recently when, in a bid to avoid the crowds pouring out of Oxford’s South Park following the annual fireworks display, I popped into The Duke pub nearby. The long bar, bustling crowd of mainly students and young people, and the functional surroundings carried me straight back to my own university days when pubs were a great place to meet, share a joke and a smoke, as well as a few pints in a convivial atmosphere.

Significantly, food was never on the menu as it were. Then (20 years ago) such establishments were common. Now, so many have disappeared under the weight of spiralling beer prices, the smoking ban and changing social attitudes.

Food has become the main driver of custom to pubs. As beer volumes dwindle, establishments have to find ways of making up the difference by attracting custom wanting to eat, while still maintaining facilities for those just wanting to sit and sup at the bar.

It’s a delicate balance that is difficult to pull off and has given rise to that ghastly term, gastropub.

But one of those that has got it right is the King’s Arms in Woodstock. Strictly speaking, this is not a pub but a hotel — and a busy one at that with 15 rooms.

Yet downstairs there is a healthy trade where locals congregate at the bar to chat and enjoy a pint or two. Meanwhile, the tables are occupied by diners enjoying food cooked to an excellent standard, courtesy of head chef Brian Arnold.

Parking ourselves at a wooden table by the window, we were quickly attended to by one of several smartly dressed, polite staff who took our order for a couple of glasses of Pinot Grigio.

The wine was cool and crisp, just as it should be, and we enjoyed sipping it as we perused the menu. Entertaining two people on this occasion, I was conscious of the budget but I need not have worried, as the prices were extremely reasonable.

In fact at £5.95 the special pork, apple and cider pie, which came with piles of chips and vegetables, was remarkable value and was as good, if not better, than the other main courses.

It was later explained to me that Friday features a special value menu choice and, with this quality, it was no wonder the place was buzzing. Clearly the locals have been keeping this particular secret to themselves.

I had chosen the lamb and rosemary stew with spinach and potato dumplings from the main menu, and this was very tasty with the meat tender, as it should be, and packed with flavour while the dumplings were delicate and not too doughy.

The other member of the party had gone for the organic Shetland salmon fishcakes with caper butter sauce and green beans wrapped in cured bacon.

This was the least impressive of the dishes, with more potato than salmon in the fishcakes. Perhaps a non-organic variety would have produced more fish.

The King’s Arms has been in the ownership of David and Sara Sykes for the past 13 years and, during that time, it has developed steadily.

Certainly, the food seems to have improved significantly on previous visits, along with the level of service, and so it is little wonder the King’s Arms was recently awarded an AA Rosette, which seems well deserved on this evidence, and will help bring in more custom.

Back to this particular meal and the dessert menu offered plenty of sweet temptation.

I switched to the specials for the bread and butter pudding, which was served with a jug of vanilla custard. A real classic, just how it should be, and one of the reasons why British puddings should be celebrated more.

Across the table the bramley apple and custard tart was going down equally well, especially with the accompanying home-made honey ice cream, while the dark chocolate and strawberry ice creams chosen by my other guest were also a hit.

After finishing the meal, I glanced over to the bar and saw people standing and chatting over drinks, just as they would have done at this establishment years ago.

All was well with the world, and I commend the Sykes for proving that, given the right ingredients of quality food, service and surroundings, it is still possible to run a restaurant/pub/hotel that will attract healthy business.

Menu: Pork, apple and cider pie, £5.95; salmon fishcakes, £8.75; lamb stew, £9.75; red cabbage: £3; ice cream, £3.56; bread and butter pudding, £3.75; apple pie, £6.50.

Drinks: Glass of lemonade, £1.50; two glasses of pinot grigio: £7.50

TOTAL: £50.26

Contact: 01993 813636 Web: www.kingshotelwoodstock.co.uk