Like many others, I find it depressing that such a number of pubs are closing these days. Many are bowing to intolerable pressure from supermarkets on drinks prices, while successive governments have done them no favours on duties and other factors, such as the smoking ban, have all contributed to their demise.

It is an industry which has seemed unwilling to change quickly, but clearly the traditional business model is no longer working.

But in this month’s In Business, there are several examples of pubs being renovated and, hopefully, finding the custom to justify the investment, so it is clear there is still plenty of will to keep the industry alive.

And last month we carried news of a £130,000 renovation of The Turnpike at Yarnton, so I decided it was time to discover what this “new generation” of traditional hostelries was offering.

The very fact I was going to eat lunch specifically perhaps sums up the change in the industry over the last 20 years.

But as I was in a pub, albeit one boasting a large dining room, I decided to opt for a beer with my meal, rather than the glass of wine which would normally accompany it.

My pint of UBU (pronounced ooboo) produced by the small Warwickshire-based Purity Brewing Company was a well balanced, full flavoured bitter — the ideal accompaniment to the meal.

That was the first revelation. The second was the lunch special menu offering three courses for £10, or two for £8.

And this was not just a limited choice of food that was less appetitising than the main menu. There was plenty to whet the appetite and in fact it was difficult to narrow down our choice.

The starters, for example, offered beer battered mushrooms, smoked chicken salad and smoked mackerel, any of which I am sure I would have enjoyed equally as much as the warm falafel I eventually plumped for.

This was crisp and spicy served with a mint and cucumber tzatziki which was very refreshing. An excellent appetiser.

Across the table, my partner had opted for the mackerel which came served with sweet potato, a particular favourite. I had not seen the combination before, but the saltiness and strong flavour of the fish was nicely offset by the potato. Another good choice.

The break in courses allowed me to take a look around and there is no doubt where the money has been spent in The Turnpike.

It still retains a pub feel and the traditional features have been retained but many of the fixtures and fittings are new. And you could not help think owner Vintage Inns had gone a little over the top in trying to add too much ‘character’ to a building that clearly already had a wealth of it in the first place.

But this did not seem to deter the clientele. Although this was a Monday lunchtime, when you would perhaps expect it to be quiet, the place was very busy and I initially feared we would not find a table, having not booked.

On to the main course and again a good selection catering for most tastes.

Having pondered over the shepherd’s pie and the intriguing sounding pulled ham and leek pudding, I decided to pay £2 extra and go for the eight ounce rump steak.

This was cooked medium/well done as requested, and was served with beer battered onion rings, tomato, peas and thick chips.

Good, traditional pub food, simple, tasty and filling and I enjoyed every mouthful.

My companion had selected the herb crumbed chicken breast served with rocket salad and chips and this was also unpretentious and much appreciated.

Giving some thought as to why it was so busy and clearly bucking the trend of declining pubs, we worked out that The Turnpike is ideally situated.

Set between Woodstock and Oxford on the A44, it benefits from passing trade, while also pulling in business custom from Langford Lane and the Oxford Motor Park nearby. And best of all, it is proving popular with villagers in the expanding Yarnton community.

Our visit was rounded off by dessert which we didn’t need but at these prices found hard to resist. I still managed to consume a portion of lemon meringue pie which was tangy but the meringue was not crispy enough for my taste.

Meanwhile, similarly short work was made of the chocolate brownie served with chocolate fudge sauce and ice cream across the table.

Clearly The Turnpike has managed to find a solution to how to run a pub in an era when so many are closing their doors for good.

Good food and drink, pleasant surroundings, prime location and, above all, excellent value. It is a winning formula that should make everyone sit up and take notice.

Menu: Falafel with tzatziki; smoked mackerel; chicken breast with chips and rocket salad; rump steak with chips and onion rings; lemon meringue pie; chocolate brownie; pint UBU bitter; glass prosecco.

Total: £28.55 Contact: 01865 847666 Web: www.vintageinn.co.uk/ theturnpikeyarnton