THE queen of Middle Eastern cuisine, the noble kebab gets a bad rap.

While the chattering classes wax lyrical about Spanish, Indian and Thai cuisine, the crowning culinary glory of the Eastern Mediterranean is haughtily dismissed by foodies as the preserve of drinkers and clubbers – an unhealthy snack to be devoured in the early hours after a belly-full of beer.

But they are missing out.

A traditional treat everywhere from the Balkans to India, the kebab has been enjoyed by travellers since Persian soldiers first grilled meat skewered on their swords in the Middle Ages.

Of course, not all kebabs are equal. The trick is finding the right one – and sticking with it. For 15 years, those with a penchant for pitta have headed up Banbury Road to a gleaming white trailer parked at the top end of Summertown shops. Police officers, ambulance crews and those working antisocial hours have come to rely on it – as well as night owls heading home after an evening out.

Run by Sevgi Ozbas, from Istanbul, and ably assisted by Adil Guncu, from Besni in south east Anatolia, pictured, Boss serves Turkish food with an English twist; generous trays of juicy doner vying for attention with burgers, chips (cheesy if required) and chicken. But the signature dish is the shish kebab. At £6 it may seem pricey, but compared to restaurant prices it is a true bargain. Excellent it is too. And huge – large enough to feed two people.

Freshly cooked on the grill by Sevgi, the meat is lean, tender, succulent and perfectly-cooked through with no fat or chewiness. It is served, of course, on a lightly-toasted pitta, which is nicely chewy at the ends and your choice of salad (in my case “all” – cucumber, thinly-sliced cabbage, red onion, sweet chunks of tomato and a pair of huge pickled chillies – the heat replaced by the tang of vinegar and slight bitterness of the crunchy skin). The choice of sauces is daunting, but the traditional toppings are lemon juice and Sevgi’s chilli sauce, with is savoury rather than fiery, perfectly complementing the juicy meat.

So large is the resulting ensemble it can only be eaten with a knife and fork (plastic, provided) and should be considered dinner rather than a snack – and a fine one at that, particularly served with golden, freshly-cooked chips (£1.20). A fine ambassador for the kebab, you’d be hard-pushed to find a better specimen this side of the Bosphorus.

  • Boss Kebab is open 6.30pm-12.30am Sun-Thurs, and 6pm-2.30am Fri and Sat. Reservations not necessary.