Sharma Charmer

Even Salvador Dali would have struggled to depict my meal at Quisine. Not just because it was a such a surreal experience, but because its Fawlty Towers moments only added to the whole wonderful encounter.

Booking a table in itself was quite interesting. When we rang and asked if they could talk us through the taster menu, the simple answer was ‘no’, and to ring back. But judging by the happy punters who have pledged eternal love to Vipen Sharma’s food on-line, there was no need to worry, and we persisted until managing to book a table for four.

Where to start? We were late, very late, even by our standards. Have you ever tried parking in Banbury? And then walking in my heels? And then arriving opposite the late-night pubs and arcades in the wrong part of town to find a closed cafe, and being led in the dark past the croissant baskets and drink stands, and having to squeeze behind an enormous freezer and up the stairs where we found our friends looking rather nervous in a tiny, empty dining room, sipping Coke from a can.

But then Vipen Sharma, right, burst into the room, grinning as he proceeded to take us through his menu, in what we realised wasn’t going to be a meal, but more of an odyssey.

Find me a man who’s prouder of his restaurant than Vipen, or anyone as happy to be cooking than him, and I’ll happily give Lady Godiva a run for her money. He was absolutely delighted to be there to show off his culinary prowess. And as he explained the dishes he was preparing for us we realised that Vipen’s tasting menu didn’t mean a succession of tiny courses, but rather a demonstration of everything he liked to cook.

As former head chef on the QE2, he knows his stuff, and despite the bizarre set up, and the staff who speak little English, we all fastened our seatbelts and held on tight for the culinary ride.

And Vipen didn’t disappoint. First up was a selection of breads with two dips, both middle eastern, the first with a hint of curry, the second lemon, and just one mouthful of each set the tone for the evening. Subtle, gentle, delicious.

The most hilarious moment came after our delicious amuse bouche of celeriac and parsnip velouté, with a hint of cardamom, when the starters were brought in on long, white plates, delicately balanced in a row. When Vipen asked if there was anything else we required we pointed at one of the starters, which had fallen on the floor, and promptly been trodden on. Vipen swore then, with a grin, went back to the kitchen to make another one.

Vipen must have spent all day in the kitchen concocting our meal, but the effort that had gone into it was still overwhelming. The roasted lamb fillet in red wine and a rosemary glaze with confit shallot, was so beautifully cooked I thought Mr Greedy might start weeping. It came accompanied by a glazed grilled mushroom filled with butter, leek and goat cheese and the soused lentils scented with caramelised onion nest on flat bread.

As if that wasn’t enough, the mains which followed included a confit of Gloucester old spot belly pork, layered with black pudding and roasted apple, served with cider gravy, and some pan-roasted pink duck, with a blood orange, Grand Marnier and kumquat sauce. These were all served with new potatoes, greens, a root vegetable tian and pan jus.

Dessert was another palette of options; a chocolate marquise with a chilli and orange reduction, a stupendous sticky toffee pudding served with clotted cream ice cream that defied belief, carrot and cardamom pudding (gajar halwa), and an Eton Mess with blueberry coulis that had Mr Greedy in raptures.

There was little finesse to the service itself. And yet we happily sign-languaged for more drinks, cutlery and to signal that we had finished each course, because the bonhomie was utterly charming. And, wait for it, you get all this for the princely sum of £25 a head. Even Basil Fawlty might have smiled at that.

* Quisine, 24 Cornhill, Banbury, OX16 5NG.

01295 276 203.

quisine.co.uk