The Fishes: North Hinksey, Oxford

Oxford is blessed, to the delight of its residents and visitors, with a number of fine pubs that are at once in the city yet at the same time clearly part of the countryside that surrounds it. One thinks straightaway of The Perch at Binsey, The Trout at Godstow and The Isis Farmhouse close to the village of Iffley, all of which possess the charm of being near the River Thames.

The Fishes at North Hinksey has an attractive adjacent waterway, too, in the shape of the Hinksey Stream. Until 1928 this was crossed by a ferry at the back of the pub. Historically, this had been reached by a causeway leading through the fields from Oxford. When this was reopened a decade or so ago, this presented an attractive alternative to Willow Walk (a much more recent thoroughfare, opened in the 1920s) as a means of reaching the pub on foot.

The road at the front of The Fishes was constructed in part by a group of Oxford undergraduates working in 1874 under the orders of the Slade Professor of Art, John Ruskin, who believed labour good for the student soul. Among them was 19-year-old Magdalen man Oscar Wilde. I like to think of him laying aside his pickaxe to enjoy a pint or two at the pub, suitable quips at the ready. “Work is the curse of the drinking classes.” That was one of his, and he never spoke truer words.

At that time, indeed up till 1885, The Fishes was a different building, closer to the stream. There is a photograph of it amid the decorations adorning its handsome tiled successor, a wonderful collection of stuffed fish in cases (the ones that didn’t get away) being the principal decorative theme.

The tasteful luxury evident at The Fishes today, under the careful stewardship of Peach Pubs, is a far cry from what could be seen in the somewhat spartan place I first became acquainted with 40 years ago. In those days I would often stroll from work for a ploughman’s lunch which cost just 12p. A pint of bitter was the same.

The garden — such a feature of The Fishes today — was much smaller then, a considerable part of it reserved for the landlord’s use. From this summer it has been named for sponsors Aspall, the makers of an excellent brand of cider. At a launch party in May, I was delighted to meet company chairman Barry Chevallier Guild, of the eighth generation of a family, originally from France, which has been producing cider in Suffolk since 1782.

In the long hot days of July and early August the garden’s many tables were packed with customers, while others lazed on rugs in true picnicking style, appropriate since a range of picnic foods served from wicker hampers is a popular feature of al fresco feasts here.

On my evening visit, a week ago today, the weather was hardly fit for outside scoffing, with rain clouds threatening as we arrived. Better by far to enjoy a view from inside the building, which is what we did, having been honoured by general manager Owain Lwyd Jones with the popular table with semi-circular banquette seating in the centre of the dining room. Here, I must explain, all attempts at subterfuge are out of the question since we know the staff well. They are a happy, well-led team.

We began the evening in traditional style with gin and tonics at the bar. Mine was a favourite Sipsmith with Fentiman’s tonic, Rosemarie’s Hendricks. Both were offered with an unusual garnish of dried juniper berries. A nice touch.

Sensing we were in fussy mood over wine, Owain permitted a mini-tasting at the bar in which we sampled the South African chenin blanc, unoaked Chilean chardonnay, sauvignon blanc both South African and New Zealand and Picpoul de Pinet, before settling on whole glasses, Rosemarie of the first, me of the second.

Both proved ideally suited to our starters. Rosemarie had a cocktail of Cornish crab, which was served in a wine glass with a topping of guacamole and a couple of crispy tacos. I had a version of one of The Fishes’ famous deli boards,with some of that same crab cocktail, crispy rings of fried squid with aioli, three generous slices of Severn & Wye smoked salmon and a warm mini brown loaf. All were excellent.

I remained with fish for my main course. This was pan-fried lemon sole, attractively presented (for ease of eating) with head, tail and most of those irritating little outer bones removed. It came with tomato butter sauce and a neat row of heritage new potatoes. I asked, as a favour, for some of the samphire listed as coming with the sea bass, and this was obligingly supplied, along with a dish of buttered courgettes, peas and broad beans.

Rosemarie was meanwhile tackling a board laden with Cornish lamb in three ways — a pink and tender cutlet, braised shoulder and breast (the last, of course, naughtily fatty). All were much enjoyed, along with (highly praised) creamy mash, aubergine and tomato relish and salsa verde. She drank fruity tempranillo.

To finish, we sampled an assortment of three of the superb ‘Summer Puddings’, one of them the thing itself, that is a summer pudding of raspberries, strawberries and blackberries encased in bread, which was served with passion fruit frozen yoghurt. There were also chargrilled peaches with pistachio biscotti and vanilla chantilly and a lemon tart (one of the night’s blackboard specials) that Rosemarie judged the best she’d eaten in ages.

There were super cheeses, too — Laverstoke mozarella, Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire, Somerset brie, Oxford Blue and Ragstone’s goat’s — with a variety of biscuits and Tracklements chutney.

As ever, service was impeccable, not just for us (which might have been expected) but for all the clearly happy customers around us.

Opening times: From 9.30am serving breakfast until 11.30am. Full à la carte menu 12pm-2.30pm and 6pm-9.30pm, and all day from 12pm on Sunday
 

Parking: Large car park beside garden
 

Key personnel: General manager Owain Llwyd Jones, chef Mathias Rouvray
 

Make sure you try the... range of deli boards priced £12.50 to £13.50 (Favourites feature barbecue pork loin, parmesan and polenta chips, Laverstoke mozzarella and heritage tomato, marinated olives, tomato chutney, summer slaw and warm pitta); starters of Cornish crab cocktail (£7.50), spatchcock quail (£8) and shredded barbecue duck salad (£7.75); main courses of leg of rabbit with sweetcorn and spring onion croquettes (£15.50), plum tomato tarte Tatin (£12.75) and lemon sole (£18.75); puddings of Bakewell tart and clotted cream (£5.50), chargrilled peaches with pistachio biscotti and vanilla chantilly (£8) and three cheeses, chutney and biscuits (£7.50).
 

In ten words:
Summer delight with fresh flavours and dishes for all tastes