In the mistaken belief that the Big Bang in Walton Street did not offer starters — an error arising from my misreading of a menu on the outside wall — we decided to precede dinner there with a visit to the recently opened bar next door, Bottega. This meant that on one evening Rosemarie and I sampled two fine establishments which in a few months time will probably cease to exist.

This is because — as readers of The Oxford Times can hardly fail to know — the Victorian block they form part of is shortly to be the subject of a controversial redevelopment. There was much concern about this because of the prominent site it occupies on the corner of Walton Street. Happily, the facade is now to be preserved. This is a source of personal pleasure to me, since 30 years ago I spent a lot of time in the flat above what was then a laundrette, because good friends of mine lived there.

I was recalling those days in a conversation with Chris Murray, Bottega’s owner, as Rosemarie and I nibbled a plate of cheeses (Oxford Blue, Oxford Isis, St Omer goat’s), cold meats (salamis and speck), huge olives and delicious dried figs. We were drinking glasses of sauvignon blanc — mine French (Sauvignon de Tourine Domaine de Corbilliers — £5.50), Rosemarie’s from New Zealand (Tinpot Hut Marlborough — £5.50). All this was a far cry from what was supplied at that time by Udin’s Manzil Tandoori, as the premises remained until earlier this year when Bottega opened.

Next door, the Big Bang is a much longer established business, set up six years ago by Max Mason, a former Royal Navy officer who was brought up in the Oxford area. On a strict diet at the time of its opening, I failed to feature it in this column in the early days and somehow never got round to making up for this deficiency, though I have in fact eaten there on a number of occasions with great enjoyment.

While built almost exclusively around sausages, the menu is much wider than this might suggest. Traditionalists can, if they wish, stick to the classic fillings of pork and beef — the latter jazzed up with the addition of Guinness — but those with more exotic tastes are well catered for too.

To ensure a good variety in our meal Rosemarie and each opted for the Big Bang Trio, which as the name suggests brought us each three bangers of a different type. One of my favourites was the vegetarian sausage which, surprisingly, were from a butcher — David John in the Covered Market — famous for the quality of his meat.

Since Max makes serious efforts to keep food miles to the minimum, local suppliers are used exclusively. Hedges, also in the Covered Market, made my excellent, pork and leek banger. The smoked bacon sausages — a favourite with Rosemarie — were from Kelmscott, near Faringdon, as were the pork and apple.

The health conscious should note that the delicious pheasant and pear sausages are particularly low in fat. The wild venison, too are a healthy option, so I felt less guilty about the pork sausages marinaded in sweet chilli sauce.

The impressive dimension of the bangers can be judged from the pictures above. All meals come with red cabbage, peas and a choice of mashed potato — garlic and rosemarie, creamed, spring onion, carrot and swede, and grain mustard. You can also pick from red wine jus, stilton jus and vegetable gravy.

The Big Bang is popular with trencherpersons — students especially — so portions are larger than some might expect. Only the seriously hungry, I think, will want to go for the Whole Hog — priced at £50 — which brings an example of each variety. It is intended (of course!) for two or more.

Both of us left significant quantities on our plates in order to leave room for apple crumble and custard and chocolate fudge cake, which we attacked jointly. Great comfort food!

I know that Max would like me to tell you there is live jazz in the basement every Tuesday. He is also — and this is my first 2010 mention of Christmas — taking festive bookings at £17.50 a pop.