I knew autumn had arrived when I noticed that Richard Golsby, Eynsham’s family butcher, had oxtail displayed in his window. Oxtail is far easier to cook than many realise. The secret with this rich-flavoured meat is to go for slow cooking, and if possible allow it to settle overnight before serving, which allows the flavours to fuse and mellow.

YOU WILL NEED One oxtail (about 2½lb/1.1kg) jointed One dessertspoon of flour One 400g tin of chopped tomatoes and the same amount of beef stock 1lb of assorted root vegetables — rough chopped Two sticks celery — rough chopped Two medium onions — rough chopped Small bunch mixed herbs to include marjoram and parsley — chopped fine One bay leaf Two cloves of garlic, finely chopped Oil to fry oxtail Salt and freshly-ground black peppercorns to season.

Method: Trim any excess fat from oxtail pieces Heat a little oil in a large frying pan and fry oxtail pieces slowly until they begin to turn brown Lift oxtail pieces from the pan and reserve in a warm place, then add rough-chopped root vegetables, onions, celery, garlic and herbs to the pan and fry gently until they begin to soften Stir in the flour, then add the chopped tinned tomatoes and the same amount of stock. Stir well Place the vegetable mix into the casserole dish. Season, then place the oxtail pieces on top, place a lid over the pan and cook in an oven at a low heat (170C/375F or gas mark 3) for at least two hours, or until the meat begins to fall off the bones If possible, cool and place in the refrigerator overnight to allow flavours to fuse and then reheat and serve with mashed potatoes and green vegetables the following evening.