Excellent reports had been reaching me concerning The Vine and Spice in Long Wittenham. These seemed likely to be accurate, since this lovely old pub (formerly the Vine) had been reopened in new style earlier this year by the people behind the Dil Raj in Abingdon and the equally highly rated Memories of Bengal (once a hostelry too) in Cholsey.

Then came news that it was up for best newcomer in the British Curry Awards. Time, I thought, to check it out.

What a delightful night it was — not least because I decided to spare myself the chore of driving. A 12-minute train journey to Didcot was followed by a ride of roughly the same length in a cab. Pryors Cars supplied for this (and indeed for the return) a luxurious new Mercedes piloted by the most courteous of drivers. We felt like film stars.

Arriving in Long Wittenham, I noted how this once pretty village has been hideously disfigured by street furniture. I was glad to reach the Vine and Spice and the cool good taste of its decor.

This listed building has been most carefully restored, retaining a bar at the front of the building, with a stylish restaurant behind. There are also two rooms up the stairs, one featuring a splendid table from Malaysia with a decoration of carved wooden elephants beneath the glass top.

We began in the bar, which I am pleased to say maintains a ‘pubby’ feel. My two companions noted with pleasure the pair of hand-pumps. Pints of Brakspear’s bitter and Marston’s Pedigree were at once ordered for Rosemarie and our friend and neighbour Paul. I went for a glass of the Chilean sauvignon blanc. This was a deliciously crisp wine that we later chose to accompany our food, orders for which were taken at our table in the bar.

Very soon we were escorted through to the restaurant where pappadoms were straightaway served. These were accompanied by a tray of pickles and chutneys — all excellent and, in the case of chef Azad Hussain’s hot beetroot pickle, refreshingly different.

Our first courses were all enjoyed, though none quite as much as my lamb rampuri, two incredibly tender cutlets of Welsh lamb, marinated in raw papaya, garlic ginger paste, paprika, fennel and malt vinegar. No, I didn’t manage to identify all those ingredients. Here, commendably, is a menu that spells everything out, so one can learn how the great taste sensations are achieved.

Rosemarie had chingri memsaab, a sautéed king prawn with honey and tamarind, and Paul adraki murgh, grilled chicken chunks with ginger, honey, red chilli and crushed coriander, with a topping of tomato and sweet basil chutney.

Main courses are divided into curries, kebabs, vegetable main dishes and birianis. I went for one of the kebabs. Hariyali machli was half a dozen or more rounds of juicy grilled monkfish bursting with the fresh flavours of lime and coriander, with green chilli, roasted gram flour and spices. My companions both had curries: Rosemarie’s was hariyali murgh masala, chicken pieces cooked with fresh green chillies, coriander and spices, and Paul’s lamb Chettinaad, diced leg of lamb with shallots, tomatoes, garlic, ginger and Chettinaad spices.

We had a side dish of spinach with garlic, mustard and cumin seeds (roosni palak), two portions of rice and super naan bread. Everything was elegantly presented; the good looks were exceeded by even better tastes. Standards of service were high, with the staff at once cheerful, good-mannered and well-informed about the food and drinks they were supplying.

At the close of the meal, as Rosemarie and Paul were finishing a portion of deep-fried battered ice cream, there came an opportunity to thank the team for their efforts. Azad repaid the compliment by offering us a chance to taste another of his puddings, a crème brûlée pepped up with chilli oil. This one I couldn’t resist.

Vine and Spice is one of the happiest discoveries I have made in a while. I wish the restaurant success in the Curry Awards.