The earliest recipe for trifle dates back to 1596. Over the centuries it has evolved from a mere cooked cream, to the many-layered extravagance we know today.

In Trifle (Prospect Books, £9.99) Helen Saberi and the late Alan Davidson guide us through its many changes, via classic English cookery books.

While it is commonly known as sherry trifle, brandy has also been used as the main flavouring agent of the dish through the years.

If you use a fine brandy, this will turn it into a gourmet treat.

As Christmas is a time when you are allowed to be a little more extravagant with your ingredients, I decided to use Three Barrels XO, one of the finest French brandies, for my trifle this year, which I made in individual glasses for extra effect.

The brandy is aged in Limousin oak barrels for 15 years, which is apparent the moment you pull the cork and release its mouth-watering aroma that includes the scents of vanilla, port wine and walnuts, and those subtle spice notes of cardamom and cinnamon, that give this brandy its edge.

In Trifle, Helen and Alan explain that the old-fashioned mode of preparing a brandy trifle was to soak a light sponge in as much good French brandy as it could absorb, then to add sliced blanched almonds and cover the lot with a rich custard.

I suggest you go one further, adding a little fruit such as frozen raspberries or redcurrants to the sponge and, having soaked it in brandy, top with custard and a flourish of whipped cream, using toasted sliced almonds as a garnish.

Served with a glass of Three Barrels at the end of a festive meal it makes a perfect Christmas pudding that is really easy to make, as the base and custard can be added to the glasses the day before.

The individual trifles can then be garnished as needed with the whipped cream and almonds.